Food — Réunion

Réunion gastronomy is a world apart, one of the most mixed and flavourful cuisines in the French-speaking world. Born from three centuries of blending between French, Malagasy, Indian, Chinese and African traditions, it is characterised by the generous use of spices (turmeric, ginger, garlic, chilli, cinnamon, clove), local herbs (combava, lemongrass, péi thyme) and tropical products (lychee, mango, Victoria pineapple, vanilla, jackfruit).

The carry is the emblematic dish. Prepared with a base of tomato, onion, garlic, ginger and turmeric, it offers infinite variations: chicken carry (the most classic), goat carry (festive dish), duck carry (often with massalé), prawn carry or crab carry, ti'jacques carry (jackfruit, vegetarian), fish carry (capucin, marlin, snapper). It is always accompanied by white rice, grains (lentils, red or white beans) and a rougail — a spicy condiment based on green tomato, green mango, candied lemon or salt cod. Rougail saucisse, a dish in its own right, is the most consumed Sunday dish on the island.

The Indian heritage is very present: samosas (triangular fritters filled with minced meat or spicy vegetables), bonbons piment (fried lentil balls with garlic and chilli, sold in cones at markets), vegetable achards (carrots, cabbage, green beans in vinegar and turmeric), cari massalé with roasted spices. Samosas are eaten as aperitifs everywhere — often with a Dodo beer, the essential local brew.

Tropical fruits are a feast in themselves. The José mango (November to February), the lychee (December-January, exported to mainland France for the holidays), the Victoria pineapple (year-round), the lychees, the longans, the passion fruit ("grenadelle"), papaya, guava, citrus (combava, galet lemon, mandarin) and of course Bourbon vanilla — one of the most prized in the world — produced mainly in Bras-Panon and Saint-Philippe.

Réunion rum is the other local pride. Two flagship distilleries perpetuate the tradition: Rivière du Mât (the oldest, since 1859, in Saint-Benoît) and Isautier (Saint-Pierre, since 1845). Agricultural and traditional rums are the base of rhum arrangé, an ultra-local speciality: white rum macerated for several months with fruits (Victoria pineapple, vanilla, passion fruit, lychee), spices (cinnamon, ginger) or plants (faham, lemongrass). Every family, every restaurant, every table d'hôtes has its recipe. It's the national aperitif, to be savoured in moderation (rum at 40-50°).

To taste authentic Creole cuisine, prioritise the table d'hôtes of the cirques (Cilaos, Hell-Bourg, Mafate îlets) where you share the meal with hosts for €20-30. The covered markets of Saint-Paul (Friday-Saturday morning), Saint-Pierre (Saturday morning) and Saint-Denis (Petit Marché and Grand Marché) are the best showcases of local production and crafts. The camions bars (mobile food stalls) along the beaches serve the best samosas and bouchons (steamed Chinese ravioli) for lunch.