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The Cirques

Three cirques sculpted in the volcanic massif of Piton des Neiges — 40% of the island UNESCO-listed since 2010, and the world's only cirque accessible only on foot: Mafate.

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Réunion's Cirques — Mafate, Cilaos and Salazie — are the geological and symbolic heart of the island, and the epicentre of the UNESCO World Heritage site listed since 2010 under the name Pitons, Cirques and Ramparts of Réunion Island. They result from the gradual collapse of Piton des Neiges, the shield volcano (3,070 m) that built the western two-thirds of the island three million years ago. Fluvial erosion then carved these immense natural amphitheatres with vertiginous ramparts, today sheltering endemic ecosystems and extraordinary human life in the îlets.

Cilaos is the cirque accessible by car via the famous 400-bend road, one of the most spectacular roads in France, which climbs in vertiginous switchbacks from Saint-Louis to 1,200 metres altitude. The eponymous village is known for its thermal baths (ferruginous waters), its Cilaos wine (vineyards planted at altitude since the 19th century), its AOP lentils and its embroidery craft. It is the ideal starting point to climb Piton des Neiges, the highest peak in the Indian Ocean.

Mafate is the world's only cirque accessible only on foot or by helicopter. Seven hundred inhabitants live scattered in a dozen îlets (hamlets lost in the ramparts) — La Nouvelle, Marla, Roche Plate, Aurère, Grand Place, Îlet à Bourse, Cayenne — connected by a network of maintained trails. No road, no car, no running water everywhere, solar electricity in most cases. Living a night or two in Mafate in a family gîte, dining on a carry prepared on site, sleeping under an unrivalled starry sky: one of the most memorable experiences France still offers.

Salazie is the greenest, rainiest, most humid cirque. Its emblematic village, Hell-Bourg, is classified among the "Most beautiful villages of France" — renovated colourful Creole houses, memory of the 19th century thermal station. It is the departure point of many hikes to Piton d'Anchaing, Trou de Fer (immense waterfall with 725 m total fall, to be seen from the Bébour-Bélouve viewpoint) and the Voile de la Mariée (300 m fall on the main road).

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Situation

Où se situe The Cirques ?

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Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need to visit the three cirques?+
Minimum 5 to 7 days for a balanced discovery: 1 day Cilaos (road, village, Roche Merveilleuse, thermal baths), 2-3 days Mafate (entry by Maïdo or Plaine des Lianes, minimum 2 nights in îlets, exit by Sans Souci or Roche Plate), 1 day Salazie (Hell-Bourg, Voile de la Mariée, Trou de Fer from the viewpoint). Add 2 days if you want to climb Piton des Neiges (3,070 m) from Cilaos with a night at the Caverne Dufour refuge.
How do you access Mafate concretely?+
Four main accesses by trail. From Maïdo (Saint-Paul, 2,205 m), descent to Roche Plate or La Nouvelle (3-4h). From Sans Souci or Deux Bras (Saint-Paul), entry via Bras de Sainte-Suzanne (4-6h depending on the îlet). From Salazie (Bélouve), passage via col du Taïbit (8h, technical). From Cilaos, col du Taïbit or col de Fourche (5-6h). The helicopter from Saint-Gilles (Hélilagon, Corail Hélicoptères) costs €200-300/person one way — option for those who do not want to hike loaded or in case of injury.
Do you need a guide to hike in the cirques?+
No for marked trails if in good physical condition and with hiking experience. The ONF network is exceptionally well maintained and marked (white-red GR markings, yellow markings for local trails). However, for technical traverses (col du Taïbit, traverse to Piton des Neiges, some accesses from Salazie to Mafate), an accompanying middle-mountain guide (AMM) is recommended. The Maison de la Montagne in Saint-Denis provides IGN maps and advice. Always check the weather before leaving: ovhmer.re and meteofrance.re.
What is the best time for the cirques?+
The austral winter, from May to November, without hesitation. Dry trails, clear morning sky (fog arrives in mid-morning even in dry season), cool but pleasant daytime temperatures (15-22°C at altitude), cold nights at altitude (5-12°C at Cilaos or at the Caverne Dufour refuge). Strictly avoid January-March: almost permanent fog in the cirques in the afternoon, muddy trails, cyclone risk. April-May and October-November are excellent shoulder windows outside school holidays.
What is an îlet in Mafate and how do you sleep there?+
An îlet is a small hamlet lost in the cirque of Mafate, perched on a platform halfway up the ramparts, grouping a few families. Ten inhabited îlets: La Nouvelle, Marla, Roche Plate, Aurère, Îlet à Bourse, Grand Place, Cayenne, Îlet à Malheur, Îlet aux Lataniers, Bordier. Each has family stage gîtes (€15-30 a night in dormitory, €35-50 half-board with homemade carry). Book via the official sites (gites-mafate.com, fede-mafate.com) or directly by phone — several weeks in advance in high season.
Is Cilaos accessible to rental cars?+
Yes, but the road is technical. The RN5 known as the "400-bend road" climbs from Saint-Louis (coast) to Cilaos (1,200 m) over 38 km, with effectively several hundred sharp bends, narrow tunnels sometimes single-lane alternating. Drive in second gear, honk at blind bends, and stop at the viewpoints. Count 1h30 from Saint-Louis, 2h30 from Saint-Denis. Rental cars authorised without restriction. Avoid driving after 6pm (fog descent) and in heavy tropical rain.
What to bring back from Cilaos as a souvenir?+
Several local AOP and IGP products. The Cilaos lentils (AOP, small fine lentils with dark green skin, to cook 30 min without soaking). Cilaos wine (IGP, vineyards planted at altitude since 1850, mainly malbec and muscat grape varieties, bottle €12-18). Cilaos embroidery (jours, hardanger, ladder jours), women's craft transmitted since the 19th century, to be purchased at the Maison de la Broderie. Mountain charcuterie (Cilaos Creole ham, smoked with tamarind wood). Taste on site the lentil soup or the carry zandolis (endemic lizards, rare traditional dish).

Our verdict

Réunion's Cirques are the most singular and profound experience the island can offer. Mafate is a unique case in the world — an entire cirque without a road, populated by inhabitants accessible only on foot — that alone justifies the trip. Cilaos combines logistical comfort (car-accessible), local gastronomy (wine, lentils, mountain charcuterie) and great hikes to Piton des Neiges. Salazie is the most accessible from Saint-Denis and offers the pluvial beauty of Hell-Bourg and its waterfalls. Dedicate a minimum of 5 to 7 days to these three cirques to live the mountainous essence of the island, ideally between May and November, and dare at least one night in a Mafate îlet.

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