Things to do — Basse-Terre

Basse-Terre is discovered by themes — volcano, forest, beaches, diving — that organise geographically around the Route de la Traversée and the two coasts.

Hiking La Soufrière is the founding experience of any stay in Basse-Terre. From Saint-Claude, the D11 road climbs to the Savane à Mulets car park (1,140 m, reachable by car). From there, the marked stone trail joins the summit crater in 1h30 of sustained walking through an increasingly lunar landscape — fumaroles, sulphur vapour, lichens and mosses carpeting the volcanic rock. At the summit (1,467 m), if the sky is clear (often the case before 9 am, much rarer afterwards), the view embraces the entire archipelago: Grande-Terre, Marie-Galante, Les Saintes, and in great weather Dominica to the south. Set off early (before 7:30 am from the car park), equip yourself with walking shoes, windbreaker, water and a mask (sulphurous smell). Avoid in rainy weather: the trail becomes slippery and dangerous.

Visiting the Carbet Falls is the other unmissable. From Capesterre Belle-Eau (windward coast), the D4 then forest road lead to the site. The 2nd fall (110 m) is the most accessible and most spectacular: 30-40 minutes walking from the car park (entry €2.30), with natural pool at the foot (swimming permitted, but strong currents). The 1st fall (115 m) demands 2h round-trip on a more demanding trail through dense forest. On the same route, don't miss Grand Étang, a peaceful crater lake surrounded by tree ferns, accessible in 5 minutes from the car park.

The Route de la Traversée (D23) is the spine of the National Park. It links Mahaut (Caribbean coast) to Versailles (Atlantic coast) in 30 minutes, crossing the primary forest. Unmissable stops: Cascade aux Écrevisses (15 minutes round-trip, swimming pool), Maison de la Forêt (free visit, starting point for several themed trails), Bains Jaunes (sulphurous hot pool at the foot of the Soufrière, free, 30 min round-trip access from the car park). Plan a full day to drive the Traversée, stopping at each site.

Diving or snorkelling at the Cousteau Reserve is the rendezvous for lovers of underwater life. From Malendure beach in Bouillante, several diving centres (Les Heures Saines, Atlantis Formation, La Bulle d'Or) offer try-dives (€60-80) and exploration dives (€50-70/dive). For snorkelling, shuttle boats leave every 30 minutes for the Pigeon islets (€15/person return) — you can also swim directly from the beach following a marked underwater route.