Cairns

Cairns (160,000 inhabitants) is the main gateway to the Great Barrier Reef and Queensland's 4th city. Located at the extreme tropical north of the Australian east coast (1,700 km north of Brisbane, tropical climate with wet season November-April and dry season May-October), it is the ideal tourist base to explore the world's largest coral reef and the Daintree Rainforest (UNESCO, world's oldest rainforest at 180 million years).

The city itself is not particularly photogenic — it is above all a base town for excursions. The centre organises around the Cairns Esplanade (urban waterfront with free saltwater pool — the 'lagoon', as sea swimming is prohibited in Cairns due to saltwater crocodiles and jellyfish), night markets (Cairns Night Markets, open year-round, Aboriginal crafts, street food), aquarium (Cairns Aquarium, AUD 50, the only one presenting complete reef and Daintree ecosystems), Reef Fleet Terminal (marina for Outer Reef excursion departures), and the hotel zone (Esplanade and Cairns Central).

The Outer Reef is the signature experience. Several operators offer day excursions in fast catamaran from Cairns (AUD 180-280/person snorkelling, AUD 280-380 with bottle diving) to Norman Reef, Hastings Reef, Saxon Reef sites 2h at sea. Major operators: Quicksilver (high-end reference, departure from Port Douglas), Reef Magic, Reef Experience, Passions of Paradise (green catamaran, ecological certification), Down Under Cruise and Dive. The liveaboard cruises to Coral Sea Reefs (Osprey Reef notably, 3-7 days) are reserved for serious divers (AUD 2,000-4,000/person).

The Daintree Rainforest (UNESCO 1988, 1h30 north of Cairns via Port Douglas) is the other great experience — the world's oldest rainforest (180 million years, older than the Amazon). Cape Tribulation (where James Cook ran aground on the reef in 1770, hence the 'Tribulation' name) is the emblematic point — white sand beach bordered by tropical rainforest. Guided excursion from Cairns AUD 150-250/person including Daintree River crossing by ferry, canopy hike (Mossman Gorge with Aboriginal Kuku Yalanji guide), possible observation of cassowary (giant flightless bird, dinosaur relative, dangerous but magnificent).

The Atherton Tablelands (1h west of Cairns, mountain plateau at 700-1,200 m) offer a cooler climate, spectacular waterfalls (Millaa Millaa Falls — Australia's most photographed, Josephine Falls, Zillie Falls), coffee and macadamia nut plantations, and Lake Eacham (volcanic crater with pure water). Ideal to escape tropical heat.

Cairns is also a vibrant backpacker town (YHA, Base, Nomads hostels — AUD 25-40 dorm), with dynamic nightlife on Lake Street and Esplanade. The cruise ship arrival port (Royal Caribbean, Princess Cruises) adds to the international atmosphere.