Akureyri

Akureyri is Iceland's second city and the undisputed logistical hub of the country's north. With its 19,000 inhabitants (and 28,000 in its agglomeration), it lies at the head of the Eyjafjörður — the country's longest fjord (60 km), surrounded by 1,000 to 1,500 m mountains that protect it from prevailing winds. The latitude (65.68° N) places it just 100 km south of the Arctic Circle, and the climate is surprisingly mild for this position thanks to Gulf Stream currents.

The city is organised around a compact pedestrian centre (Hafnarstræti and Kaupvangsstræti streets) walked in a few hours. The iconic building is the Akureyrarkirkja — the modernist Lutheran church of 1940 designed by Guðjón Samúelsson (the architect of Reykjavik's Hallgrímskirkja). With its 112 access steps and silhouette in two geometric towers, it dominates the city from the central hill. The Lystigarðurinn botanical garden (founded in 1912, free) is the world's northernmost and surprisingly houses 7,000 plant species — all temperate and Arctic flora on the planet are represented. The Akureyri Museum of Art and the Nonni House (local 19th-century children's author, his works translated into 40 languages) complete the cultural offering.

The culinary scene is surprisingly rich for a city of this size. Strikið (panoramic, fjord view, gastronomic new Nordic, €50-80/person) is the best table. Rub23 (sushi-omakase and Nordic fusion cuisine, €40-65/person) and Bautinn (local institution, traditional Icelandic dishes, €30-45/person) complete the references. The public swimming pool of Akureyri (Sundlaug Akureyrar, ISK 1,200 / €8) is one of the country's best — several outdoor geothermal pools with fjord view, massively frequented by locals.

In winter, the Hlíðarfjall ski resort (5 min by car from the centre) is Iceland's best: 8 lifts, 24 pistes of all levels, summit at 1,538 m, reliable season December to late April. It is one of the few resorts in the world where you can ski with a view of the Atlantic Ocean. Ski-touring enthusiasts will find virgin high-mountain terrain in the neighbouring Tröllaskagi peninsula ('Trolls' peninsula') (1,200-1,500 m peaks, residual glaciers, untouched slopes) with a season extending from February to May.

Akureyri is above all the logistical hub for exploring northern Iceland. The city has a domestic airport (Akureyri AEY) with 4-6 daily flights from Reykjavik (45 minutes, €70-130 return with Air Iceland Connect — often faster and cheaper than the road). From Akureyri, you can easily radiate to Goðafoss (30 min east, emblematic waterfall), Mývatn (1 h 30 east, unique volcanic area), Húsavík (1 h 30 north-east, world capital of whales), Dettifoss (2 h 30 east, Europe's most powerful waterfall) and the Tröllaskagi peninsula (1-2 h, alpine landscapes and fishing villages).