Things to do — Benares & UP

Varanasi's signature experiences are essential. The sunrise boat ride (5:30-7:30 am depending on season) is the absolute experience — embark from Assi Ghat or Dashashwamedh, silently glide along the ghats over 2-4 km, observe pilgrims in ritual bath, morning ceremonies, bodies burning at Manikarnika in golden light. Negotiated rate: 200-500 INR/person for 1h30.

The Ganga Aarti evening ceremony (6:30-7:30 pm depending on season) at Dashashwamedh Ghat: 7 synchronised priests in saffron robes perform an elaborate 45 min ceremony — fire (oil lamps mounted on arches), incense, conches, bells, Vedic chants — in honour of Mother Ganges. Hypnotic spectacle. Watch from ghat (free, arrive 1h early) or from boat (200-500 INR).

The cremations at Manikarnika Ghat are among the most intense experiences. Imperative ethical approach: never photos, absolute respect, silent observation at distance. Beware of scams (fake "priests" requesting donations for fictitious families). Observation from boat is emotionally more bearable.

The old quarter is discovered on foot — half a day of wandering in alleys is essential. Suggested itinerary from Dashashwamedh Ghat: Vishwanath Galli, surroundings of Kashi Vishwanath Temple (interior restricted to Hindus), banaras silk sari weaving workshops, street food.

Sarnath — half-day excursion (10 km, 30 min taxi 400-600 INR round-trip with wait). To see: archaeological museum (Ashoka Lion Capital), Dhamek Stupa (43.6 m, 5th century CE), Chaukhandi Stupa, Mulagandhakuti monastery remains, Mulagandhakuti Vihara modern temple with Japanese murals. 2h30-3h sufficient.