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Cilaos

The only cirque of Réunion accessible by car via the mythical 400-bend road — and the starting point to climb Piton des Neiges (3,070 m), the highest peak of the Indian Ocean.

★ 4.70Cirques de la Réunion

Cilaos is one of Réunion's three cirques (with Mafate and Salazie), and the only one accessible by car. Set at 1,200 metres altitude in the heart of a natural amphitheatre encircled by vertiginous ramparts culminating at Piton des Neiges (3,070 m), it is an altitude village of about 6,000 inhabitants with a unique character in France: AOP wine production in a tropical environment, AOP lentils, artisanal embroidery transmitted since the 19th century, ferruginous thermal baths.

Access is via the RN5 known as the "400-bend road", one of the most spectacular roads in France. It climbs from Saint-Louis (west coast, sea level) to Cilaos in 38 km, crossing 11 tunnels (some single-lane alternating) and effectively several hundred sharp bends, in landscapes of breathtaking beauty: deep ravines, cliffs, dense tropical vegetation. Count 1h30 of driving from Saint-Louis, 2h30 from Saint-Denis, 2h from Saint-Gilles.

The village of Cilaos is discovered on foot: Centre market, Maison de la Broderie (classified women's craft, jours, hardanger, ladder jours), Wine Cooperative (visit and tasting, Cilaos wine is one of the rare tropical wines of France, mainly malbec and muscat grape varieties), thermal baths (cures and day care, sodium chloride-bicarbonate waters), Notre-Dame-des-Neiges church. Local cuisine is the other pride: Cilaos AOP lentils (small lentils with dark green skin, firm and tasty), mountain charcuterie (Creole ham smoked with tamarind), lentil soup and zandolis carry (endemic lizards, rare traditional dish).

But Cilaos is above all a base camp for hiking. The Roche Merveilleuse (viewpoint at 1,240 m, 1h30 round trip from the centre) offers a 360° panorama over the cirque. The Cascade de Bras Rouge (3h round trip) descends into the valley. The Trois Salazes trail runs along the ramparts to the col du Taïbit (passage to Mafate). And above all, it is the starting point for the ascent of Piton des Neiges (3,070 m, highest peak of the Indian Ocean), a mythical 2-day hike with night at the Caverne Dufour refuge — departure around 4 am from the last stage to reach the summit at sunrise over the ocean.

What we love

  • ✅Only cirque accessible by car, ideal for a day trip or a 2-3 day stay
  • ✅400-bend road: one of the most spectacular in France
  • ✅Starting point for the ascent of Piton des Neiges (3,070 m), highest peak of the Indian Ocean
  • ✅Unique local gastronomy: AOP wine, AOP lentils, mountain charcuterie, embroidery
  • ✅Ferruginous thermal baths (cures and day care), temperate climate (15-22°C during the day)

What to know

  • ❌Technical and challenging 400-bend road, not recommended for anxious drivers
  • ❌Rapid fog in the afternoon even in dry season, hiking early in the morning imperative
  • ❌Cold nights in austral winter (5-12°C), warm equipment required
  • ❌Limited hotel offer compared to the west coast, to be booked in advance in high season
When to go
Climate and best seasons.
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Budget
Cost of living and tips.
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Things to do
Activities and must-sees.
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Situation

Où se situe Cilaos ?

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Frequently asked questions

How long do you need to visit Cilaos?+
Count 1 to 2 days to enjoy Cilaos. A full day if you are in a hurry: 400-bend road, village, Roche Merveilleuse (1h30 round trip), wine cooperative or Maison de la Broderie. Two days more comfortable: add the Bras Rouge waterfall (3h round trip), the thermal baths, and a real immersion in the village (market, table d'hôtes). To climb Piton des Neiges (3,070 m), plan 2 additional days with night at the Caverne Dufour refuge.
Is the 400-bend road dangerous?+
It is technical but not dangerous if driven carefully. The RN5 climbs from Saint-Louis (coast) to Cilaos (1,200 m) over 38 km, with several hundred sharp bends, 11 tunnels (some single-lane alternating — strictly respect the lights), and a few narrow sections with difficult overtaking. Drive in second gear, honk at blind bends, stay attentive to local Car Jaune bus crossings. Avoid driving after 6pm (fog descent) and in heavy tropical rain (risk of landslides). Rental cars without restriction. Count 1h30 from Saint-Louis.
How to climb Piton des Neiges?+
The ascent of Piton des Neiges (3,070 m, highest peak of the Indian Ocean) is done in 2 days from Cilaos. Day 1: departure from Bloc (parking, end of the forest road), 4h of walking to the Caverne Dufour refuge (2,478 m, half-board to be booked). Day 2: departure around 4am (headlamp imperative), 1h30 of walking in the dark to the summit, arrival at sunrise (unforgettable spectacle). Return to Cilaos by the same itinerary (5-6h). Equipment: hiking shoes, fleece, windbreaker, hat and gloves (summit below 0°C before dawn), 2L/person water, energy bars, headlamp, light sleeping bag if not provided at the refuge.
What to see and do in Cilaos itself?+
Several essentials in the village. The Roche Merveilleuse: viewpoint at 1,240 m at 30 min by car or 1h30 of walking, 360° panorama over the entire cirque. The Centre market (Friday morning) for local products. The Maison de la Broderie: exhibition of the women's craft of Cilaos, shop. The wine cooperative to visit the cellars and taste the AOP Cilaos wine. The thermal baths of Cilaos for a cure or a day of relaxation. The Notre-Dame-des-Neiges church. The Bras Rouge (3h round trip) and Fleurs Jaunes (3h round trip) waterfalls for hikers.
Is Cilaos wine worth tasting?+
Cilaos wine is a historical and geographical curiosity: it is the only tropical wine of France (apart from Tahiti) to benefit from an IGP (Protected Geographical Indication). Vineyards planted at altitude since 1850 by French colonists, exclusively in Cilaos (temperate climate at 1,200 m). Limited production (a few thousand bottles per year). Main grape varieties: malbec, muscat, chenin. Original aromatic profile but variable quality depending on the vintages. Bottle €12-18. To taste at the Cilaos wine cooperative (free visit, tasting €3-5). More interesting as an experience than as a great wine — but it is unique in France and therefore to try.
Which accommodation to choose in Cilaos?+
Several options. Comfort: the Hôtel des Thermes (3-star superior, €110-160/night, direct access to thermal baths), Hôtel Le Vieux Cep (rustic wooden rooms, €90-130). Charm and tradition: many guesthouses in renovated Creole houses (€60-95/night with Creole breakfast), tables d'hôtes with traditional dinners (€25-35/person, carry, lentil soup, homemade charcuterie). Economic: rural gîtes and stage gîtes (€15-35/night in dormitory or simple room). Book in advance in high season (July-August, bank holidays).
Can you combine Cilaos and Mafate in one trip?+
Yes, it is even a very interesting option for hikers. The Cilaos-Mafate traverse by the col du Taïbit (2,081 m) is one of the most beautiful itineraries of Réunion: 5-6h of walking from Cilaos centre to Marla (first îlet of Mafate accessible from Cilaos), with positive elevation of 900 m then negative of 700 m. Marked trail GR R2, without major technical difficulty but physical. Possibility to continue to other Mafate îlets (La Nouvelle, Roche Plate) and exit by Sans Souci or Maïdo. Car retrieval logistics to plan (taxi, shuttle €50-80). Complete loop: 4-5 days minimum, recommended for experienced hikers.

Our verdict

Cilaos is Réunion's "easy" cirque — accessible by car, with a real village of character, rich in gastronomic and artisanal traditions. It is the ideal introduction to the world of cirques for travellers who are not experienced hikers, and it is the obligatory base camp for those who want to climb Piton des Neiges. Plan 1 to 2 nights on site: day 1 for the village, Roche Merveilleuse and Bras Rouge waterfall; day 2 for the wine cooperative, Maison de la Broderie, and a relaxing evening at the thermal baths. If you climb Piton des Neiges, add a night at the Caverne Dufour refuge. Come from May to November to enjoy the dry season.

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The Editors
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"Été austral chaud-humide, cyclones possibles."

Expert on Cilaos · 1 contributions

Reviewed by :Africa & Americas Desk — Mowando·Editor

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