When to go — Petra and the South

The climate of Southern Jordan is desert, with considerable thermal amplitudes between day and night, and between seasons. At Petra (900 m altitude), temperatures range from -2 °C (January nights) to 44 °C (July days). At Wadi Rum (1,100 m altitude), even more marked: nights at -5 °C in January, days at 45 °C in July. These variations strongly condition the choice of period.

March-May: the prime season. Perfect temperatures at Petra (20-26 °C by day, 10-15 °C at night), Wadi Rum bivouacs in ideal conditions (22-28 °C day, 10-15 °C night — cool but bearable). The desert may be in bloom after winter rains (rare but magical — poppies and irises on Petra's slopes in March-April). April is the busiest month (European Easter holidays) — Petra attendance can exceed 15,000 visitors/day, hour-long queues to cross the Siq at peak hours (10 am-12 pm). Book 3-4 months in advance for quality hotels and camps.

October-November: the second ideal season, and probably the best for those seeking to avoid crowds. Temperatures still perfect (18-25 °C day, 8-15 °C night in October, cooler in November), crowds reduced after the European All Saints' holidays, sublime autumn light on the pink sandstone. This is the ideal season to observe the stars at Wadi Rum — dry air, low light pollution, Milky Way visible to the naked eye, bright Saturn and Jupiter. Nights become cool from mid-November (5-10 °C), fleece and beanie useful for bivouac.

Winter (December-February) is cold to very cold in southern Jordan. Petra: days 5-12 °C, nights -2 to 5 °C, snow possible 1-2 times per winter (notable episodes in 2013 and 2022). Wadi Rum: nights -5 to 0 °C, days 12-18 °C. Bedouin bivouac is unpleasant without suitable equipment (extreme cold sleeping bags required). On the other hand, sites are nearly empty (except Christmas and New Year weeks when rates explode), exceptional winter light on the pink sandstone offers magnificent contrasts, and hotel rates collapse (Mövenpick Resort Petra at €100-150/night instead of €300 in April). For photographers and lovers of quiet, paradoxically an interesting season.

Summer (June-August) and early September are absolutely to be avoided. Petra reaches 38-44 °C in full sun — visiting midday becomes dangerous (severe heatstroke regularly reported, ambulances at the entrances). Wadi Rum at 45 °C in full day makes any hiking impossible between 10 am and 5 pm. If you absolutely must visit in summer, organise to enter Petra at 6 am (opening), leave before 11 am, and return in late afternoon (4-6 pm). Very low hotel rates as compensation, near-zero crowds.