Things to do — Petra and the South

Petra and the South offer an experience combining monumental archaeology, desert immersion and moderate physical adventure.

At Petra, minimum two days are necessary. Day 1 (classic route): enter through the main gate at 6 am (opening) to enjoy the Khazneh without crowds. About 1 km walk through Bab as-Siq (entrance valley dotted with Djinn Blocks and the Obelisk Tomb) to the entrance of the Siq (natural canyon 1.2 km long, 80 m high, narrowing to 3 m — one of the most dramatic entrances in the world). The Siq opens abruptly onto the Khazneh ('the Treasury', 40 m high, Nabataean façade carved around the 1st century BC, probably a royal tomb — that of King Aretas IV who reigned at the birth of Christ). Continue toward the colonnaded street (main commercial artery of the ancient city), the royal tombs (Urn, Silk, Corinthian, Palace — carved high in the right cliff), the Roman theatre (8,000 seats, carved directly into the rock), the Great Temple and the Qasr al-Bint (the only monument built of cut stones, and not carved into the rock). That's 4-6h of visit with photo and lunch breaks.

Day 2 (climbs): early morning (8 am, before the heat) for the Monastery (Ad-Deir) — 800 rock-cut steps, 1h-1h30 climb. The Monastery is even larger than the Khazneh (47 m high) and probably more impressive — the solitude and silence at the top are striking. Continue 5 min on foot to the Best View in the World (signpost on site) for an extraordinary plunging view over the Wadi Araba desert and, on clear days, as far as Israel. Descent in 45 min. Afternoon: climb to the High Place of Sacrifice (another climb of about 600 steps, 45 min) for another exceptional viewpoint over the Petra valley. Petra by Night (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday 8:30-10 pm, 17 JOD = €22) — Siq illumination by 1,500 lanterns, dinner in front of the Khazneh accompanied by Bedouin music. Controversial experience (touristy but magical for some).

Day 3 (optional) — secondary trails: Little Petra (Siq al-Barid) 8 km north of Petra (free entry, 1h visit) — miniature version of Petra, much quieter. 'Indiana Jones' trail from Little Petra to the Monastery (3-4h hike, moderate elevation, superb landscapes, lightly travelled). Al-Khubtha trail for plunging view over the Khazneh from above (3h round trip, access to the cliff top opposite the Khazneh).

Wadi Rum is mandatorily visited with a Bedouin guide. Full-day 4x4 excursion: 9 am departure from Wadi Rum Visitor Center, photo stops at emblematic sites — Lawrence Spring (source where Lawrence of Arabia camped), Khazali Canyon (Nabataean and Thamudic petroglyphs, 2,000 years old), Anfishieh Canyon, Burdah Rock Bridge (highest natural bridge in the Middle East, 35 m), Um Frouth Rock Bridge, Lawrence's House (ruins attributed to T.E. Lawrence), red dunes (climb on foot for panoramic view), Mushroom Rock. Picnic lunch in the desert. Sunset on the dunes — magical moment, flaming orange light. Night in Bedouin camp: zarb dinner (meat and vegetables cooked underground in the sand for 3-4h, traditional Bedouin method), Bedouin music around the campfire, sage tea under the stars. Sunrise on the dunes (5:30-6 am depending on season) — the other magical moment.

For the King's Road: Kerak (Crac of the Moabites, one of the most powerful Crusader fortresses) — 2-3h visit, view over Wadi Mujib. Shobak (Crusader Montréal) — more modest but authentic. Dana Reserve: Dana Trail (1 day, 14 km, descent from plateau to desert), night at Feynan Ecolodge (one of the most remarkable ecotourism experiences in the world).