Things to do — Goa

Goa organises around two complementary major experiences. First the beaches. In the North: Calangute and Baga (busy beaches, beach shacks galore, maximum nightlife), Candolim (quieter than Baga), Anjuna (historic hippie beach, famous Wednesday market with 2,000 stalls and 30,000 visitors in season, photogenic cliff, nightly raves), Vagator (cliff-fringed beach, 1717 Portuguese Chapora fort, iconic sunset, parties at Hilltop Vagator and Curlies Anjuna), Arambol and Mandrem (alternative beaches, yoga), Morjim (Little Russia).

In the South: Palolem (the most iconic: perfect golden sand crescent fringed by palms, 1.5 km of beach, bamboo huts in high season, magic relaxed vibe — the "postcard Goa" photo), Agonda (longer beach 3 km, quieter, yoga retreat atmosphere, sea turtles nest November-March), Patnem, Colva, Benaulim (5-star resorts nearby: Park Hyatt, Leela), Cola Beach (hidden cove).

Then Portuguese heritage. UNESCO Old Goa — Bom Jesus Basilica (St Francis Xavier's body), Sé Cathedral (Asia's largest), Church of St Francis of Assisi, Saint Monica convent, half-day visit. Panjim and its Fontainhas quarter — late-day walk, Portuguese restaurants at Largo da Igreja (church square of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception 1541).

Off-beach activities: spice plantation visit (Tropical Spice Plantation Ponda, Sahakari Spice Farm, 600-1,200 INR with lunch and traditional dance), Goan cooking class (1,500-3,000 INR), Mandovi cruise (400-800 INR), Dudhsagar waterfall in jeep from Mollem (3,500-5,000 INR day), dolphin watching (Coco Beach, 600-1,200 INR morning), diving at neighbouring Grande Island (4,500-7,000 INR day), yoga retreat (Arambol, Agonda, Palolem).

Finally nightlife. Night markets: Anjuna Wednesday Market, Saturday Night Market Arpora, Mackies Night Bazaar (Baga, Friday). Bars and clubs: Tito's Lane in Baga, Cape Town Café Anjuna, SinQ Nightclub Candolim. Raves: Hilltop Vagator, Curlies Anjuna. The Sunburn festival (4 days late December) draws 200,000 people.