Vancouver

Vancouver (662,000 inhabitants within city limits, 2.8 million with its Metro Vancouver metropolitan area) is the economic and cultural metropolis of British Columbia and Canada's 3rd largest city (after Toronto and Montreal). Located on a peninsula between Burrard Inlet to the north and the Fraser River delta to the south, wedged between the Pacific Ocean to the west and the North Shore Mountains to the east (Grouse 1,231 m and Cypress 1,469 m, often snow-capped in winter), with its glass skyline facing the sea, Vancouver is one of North America's most beautiful cities — frequently ranked among the world's most liveable cities (Mercer Quality of Living, world top 5 over the past decade).

The city stands out for its assumed multiculturalism — 40% of the population of Asian origin (North America's 2nd Chinatown after San Francisco, Indo-Canadian communities notably Punjabi in Surrey, Japanese, Filipino, Korean communities), its integration of nature into the urban fabric (Stanley Park 1,000 acres in downtown, 28 km seawall trail around the peninsula, urban beaches at English Bay and Kitsilano, skiing 30 min from downtown, kayaking on Burrard Inlet), its exceptional gastronomy scene (one of the world's best Asian-fusion, remarkable Pacific seafood) and its relaxed West Coast atmosphere (yoga, athleisure fashion, indie coffee, Sunday brunch, biking culture).

Neighbourhoods to explore: Downtown (skyscrapers, Robson Street shopping, BC Place, Rogers Arena for Canucks NHL), West End (elegant residential facing English Bay, Davie Village LGBTQ+), Gastown (historic 1860 neighbourhood, paved streets, iconic Steam Clock 1977, gourmet restaurants L'Abattoir, Wildebeest, distilleries), Yaletown (former railway neighbourhood restored into trendy skyscraper district, breweries, cafés), Chinatown (North America's 2nd, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden first traditional Chinese garden outside China, dim sum restaurants), Granville Island (peninsula under Granville Bridge, Public Market with exceptional local produce, breweries, art galleries, theatres — the must-do), Kitsilano ("Kits", trendy seaside neighbourhood west of False Creek, Kits Beach, raw fish restaurants, yoga studios), Mount Pleasant (Main Street, indie cafés and shops), Commercial Drive ("The Drive", multicultural Italo-Portuguese-Ethiopian).

Flagship activities: Stanley Park (1,000 acres in downtown, North America's largest urban park after Central Park, seawall trail 10 km around the peninsula flat and accessible — Vancouver's iconic experience by bike or on foot 1h30 — Pacific Ocean and North Shore Mountains view, Pacific coast Indigenous totems, English Bay, Sunset Beach, Vancouver Aquarium), Granville Island Public Market (morning, exceptional local produce, Pacific seafood, breweries, galleries — 10am-7pm, free, walk from Downtown via Aquabus mini-ferry CAD 4), Capilano Suspension Bridge Park (in North Vancouver, 25 min by bus from downtown, 137 m long suspension bridge at 70 m above the canyon, Treetops Adventure in canopy, Cliffwalk overhanging balconies, CAD 70 adult — Vancouver's most visited attraction), Lynn Canyon Park (free alternative to Capilano, more authentic, 50 m above Lynn canyon, free North Vancouver park), Grouse Mountain ("Skyride" cable car to 1,250 m, CAD 75, panoramic Vancouver and Pacific Ocean view, bears in enclosure, skiing in winter — North Shore must-do), VanDusen Botanical Garden (botanical garden 22 ha, CAD 13, plant maze, Festival of Lights in December), Museum of Anthropology (UBC) (one of the world's best anthropology museums, exceptional Pacific coast Indigenous collection with monumental Haida totems, CAD 18, at University of British Columbia 25 min from centre), Queen Elizabeth Park (city's highest point at 152 m, panoramic view of Downtown and North Shore Mountains, Bloedel plant conservatory).

Vancouver's gastronomy scene is among North America's most exceptional — particularly renowned for Asian-fusion cuisine (legacy of massive Chinese and Indian diaspora). To try: dim sum at Sun Sui Wah (Chinatown, Cantonese dim sum CAD 25-50/person) or Kirin (3 addresses, more upscale), sushi at Tojo's (chef Hidekazu Tojo, inventor of the California Roll, omakase CAD 200), Miku (aburi flame-seared sushi, CAD 80-130), Minami (Yaletown, modern version), ramen at Marutama Ramen (Robson Street, tonkotsu ramen CAD 15-22) or Santouka (Robson), izakaya at Guu with Garlic (Robson Street), Indian at Vij's (modernist institution, CAD 50-100/person) or Sula Indian (authentic Indian cuisine), Pacific seafood at Boulevard Kitchen (Sutton Place Hotel, CAD 80-150), Blue Water Cafe (Yaletown, high-end seafood CAD 90-160), Bar Oso (Spanish). Fine dining: Hawksworth (Rosewood Hotel Georgia, Michelin star, tasting menu CAD 195), St. Lawrence (Quebec gastronomy in Vancouver, CAD 90-150), Burdock & Co (creative locavore).

Winter brings rain (Vancouver is nicknamed "Raincouver" for its 200 mm/month in November-December, 200-300 rainy days per year), but also skiing accessible 30 min from downtown: Grouse Mountain (lift pass CAD 80-110/day, night skiing Friday-Saturday), Cypress Mountain (host of 2010 Olympics freestyle skiing, lift pass CAD 100-130), Mount Seymour (the most economical, CAD 80-100). Complementary: VanDusen Festival of Lights (December 1-January 3, 1 million lights, magical), Stanley Park Bright Nights (illuminated mini train, mid-November-early January), free skating at Robson Square (skate rental CAD 5). Vancouver is one of the few cities in the world where you can ski in the morning on Grouse, kayak in the afternoon on Burrard Inlet, and dine gastronomic in the evening in Yaletown — the same day.