Things to do — Istanbul Marmara

Istanbul is one of the world's richest cities in sites — a complete inventory would far exceed a regional guide. Here are the must-sees structured by neighbourhood.

Historic peninsula (Sultanahmet): Hagia Sophia — Byzantine basilica of Justinian (537), transformed into a mosque by Mehmed II (1453), museum (1934-2020) and again a mosque since 2020. Free entry for the prayer hall, paid ticket for the upper museum gallery (€25). The Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii, 1616) — six minarets, 20,000 blue Iznik tiles, free (under partial restoration since 2018). Topkapi Palace — residence of Ottoman sultans from 1465 to 1856, harem, imperial treasury (€52). The Basilica Cistern Yerebatan (532) — vast Byzantine underground reservoir supported by 336 columns (€30). The Hippodrome and its obelisks (Egyptian one of Theodosius, Delphic serpentine). The Istanbul Archaeological Museum (Alexandrian sarcophagi, tablet of the Treaty of Kadesh).

Eminönü and Grand Bazaar: The Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı, 1461) — one of the world's largest covered markets, 4,000 shops under 64 Ottoman vaults, 30,000 people working there daily. Carpets, jewellery, Iznik ceramics, lamps, copper, antiques, clothing. Bargaining mandatory. The Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı, 1660) — spice bazaar, smaller but more authentic. The Süleymaniye Mosque (1557) — masterpiece of architect Sinan, dominating the Golden Horn, exceptional panoramic view from its gardens.

Bosphorus cruise — unmissable: the public Şehir Hatları company offers round-trip cruises Eminönü-Anadolu Kavağı (all day, €8) or shorter ones (2h30, €4-8). View of palaces (Dolmabahçe, Çırağan, Beylerbeyi), fortresses (Rumeli Hisarı), polychrome wooden yalı and fishing villages. Magical sunset on a private cruise (€30-80).

Galata and Beyoğlu (north bank of the Golden Horn): Galata Tower (14th century, Genoese) — 360° panoramic view of the historic peninsula, the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn (€30, frequent queues). The İstiklal Avenue (Istiklal Caddesi) — 1.4 km pedestrian, old red tram, cinemas, bookshops, restaurants, historic cafés (Markiz, Lebon). Taksim Square — heart of modern Istanbul. The Pera Museum (orientalist paintings, temporary exhibitions). The ceramic and jewellery workshops of the Çukurcuma neighbourhood.

Ottoman hammam: Çemberlitaş Hamamı (1584, Sultanahmet) — designed by Sinan, kese + soap + massage package €50-90. Cağaloğlu Hamamı (1741, near Hagia Sophia) — frequented by Florence Nightingale, Kate Moss. Complete 1h30-2h ritual. Reservation 24-48h in advance recommended.

Excursions: Princes' Islands — ferry from Kabataş (1h15 to Büyükada, €5), pine forest, old wooden villas, carriages and bicycles (no cars allowed), Monastery of Saint George at the summit of Büyükada. Bursa — fast ferry from Yenikapı (2h, €12) + 30 min bus: former Ottoman capital, 14th-century green mosques (Yeşil Cami, Yeşil Türbe), grand silk bazaar (Koza Han), Mount Uludağ accessible by cable car.