Food — Saint Martin

Saint Martin gastronomy has become, in a few decades, one of the most recognised in the Caribbean — to the point where the island is regularly ranked among the region's best culinary destinations. The heart of this reputation is in Grand-Case, where more than 30 restaurants line a single 2 km main street, from the family Creole lolo (wood-fire smoking) to the Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant.

The Grand-Case lolos are an institution. These family-run restaurants set up on the port (Talk of the Town, Sky's the Limit, Rosemary's) serve authentic Creole cuisine on charcoal: smoked chicken (marinated in spices, slowly smoked), grilled ribs (tender pork ribs), grilled conch (large carnivorous shell), accompanied by rice and beans, plantain, cabbage salad and johnny cake (fried flatbread). Count €15-25/person, relaxed atmosphere, tables by the sea, queue from 6:30 pm. The Mardis de Grand-Case (January to April) close the street to traffic and bring in artisans and entertainment.

The gastronomic restaurants of Grand-Case rank among the best in the Antilles. The Bistrot Caraïbes (revisited French cuisine with Antillean flavours), Le Pressoir (creative cooking in a Creole house), L'Auberge Gourmande (gastronomic French tradition), Sol e Luna (refined Italian), Spiga (Italian-Mediterranean) attract a demanding international clientele. Count €50-90/person without wine, €80-150 on tasting menu. 1-2 week advance booking essential in high season.

Everyday Creole cuisine is also experienced in the lolos of Marigot (Enoch's at the market, Maison Pulchérie), the Orient Bay snacks (Bikini Beach, Waikiki Beach, Kakao Beach) and the small family tables of Cul-de-Sac and French Cul-de-Sac. Specialities to try: saltfish accras (cod fritters), colombo de cabri (Antillean goat curry), court-bouillon de poisson (fish in tomato-spice sauce), callaloo (tropical leaf soup), crab back (crab meat baked in its shell).

Rums are not a Saint Martin specialty (no AOC, no major distillery), but the beach bars serve excellent Caribbean cocktails: ti-punch (agricultural rum, cane sugar, lime), rum punch (rum, fruit juices, syrup), piña colada, daiquiri. Local beers (Carib, Heineken on the Dutch side) accompany lolo meals. On the sweet side, coconut sorbets and fresh grilled pineapples with rum close the meals.

The markets are less developed than in Guadeloupe: the Wednesday and Saturday market in Marigot (waterfront, exotic fruits, spices, basketry) remains the most authentic. The West Indies Mall market in Marigot is more touristy.