When to go — Amman and the North

The climate of Amman and the North is Mediterranean tempered by altitude — Amman is at 1,000 m, Ajloun at 1,250 m. This produces hot but dry summers (rarely stifling), and cool to cold winters with snow possible once or twice a year. The tourist seasonality is therefore well marked.

March-May: the prime season. Perfect temperatures in Amman and Jerash (18-26 °C by day, 10-15 °C at night), green Ajloun hills after winter rains (sometimes magnificent with poppies and wildflowers), ideal light for photographing the ruins. April is the busiest month (European and American Easter holidays) — book your Amman hotels 2-3 months in advance. May is slightly hotter but less crowded.

September-November: the second ideal season. Temperatures still very pleasant (20-28 °C by day, 12-18 °C at night). This is probably the best period if you want to avoid crowds without sacrificing climate comfort. November brings cooler nights in the hills (5-10 °C in Ajloun) and shorter days — archaeological sites close by 5 pm. The golden autumn light on the columns of Jerash's cardo maximus, in late afternoon, is one of Jordan's most beautiful photographic spectacles.

Winter (December-February) is cold in Amman (days 8-14 °C, nights 0-5 °C) and very cold in Ajloun (frequent snow in January-February, sometimes up to 30 cm). Rain can be sustained over several consecutive days, and visiting open-air archaeological sites becomes uncomfortable. However, this is the low-price season (outside Christmas/New Year), with nearly empty sites, and the rare and magical possibility of seeing Jerash or the Amman Citadel under snow (2-3 times per decade). Plan a fleece, waterproof coat and closed shoes.

Summer (June-August) is hot but bearable in Amman thanks to the altitude (28-32 °C day, 18-22 °C night) — much more temperate than the south of the country (Petra at 40-44 °C, Wadi Rum at 45 °C). Visits to the Citadel, Roman Theatre and Jerash remain possible but should be avoided at midday (12-3 pm, very intense dry heat on exposed sites). Prefer early morning (7-11 am) and late afternoon (4-7 pm). The Jerash Festival in July-August (music, theatre and dance in the ancient ruins, created in 1981) is one of the major cultural events in the Middle East — Arab and international programming, unique atmosphere under the illuminated Roman columns.