Things to do — Alsace

Strasbourg is the essential. The Notre-Dame Cathedral (flamboyant Gothic, 142 m high, built from 1015 to 1439, the world's tallest building from 1647 to 1874) is one of the masterpieces of European Gothic art. Don't miss the astronomical clock (19th-century mechanism, apostles' parade daily at 12:30 pm, €3) and the panoramic platform (332 steps, €5, view of the Black Forest). The Petite France (former tanners', millers' and fishermen's district) unfolds its 16th-17th century half-timbered houses along the Ill canals. The Covered Bridges (3 medieval bridges and 4 13th-century towers) and the Vauban Dam (free panoramic terrace over the Petite France) are essential. The Rohan Palace (18th-century episcopal palace) houses 3 museums (Fine Arts, Archaeological, Decorative Arts) worth visiting. The Alsatian Museum (traditional Alsatian life) and the Historical Museum of Strasbourg complete cultural discovery. The Neustadt (Wilhelminian extension 1880-1918, UNESCO since 2017) unfolds imperial German urbanism: Place de la République (formerly Kaiserplatz), University Palace, National Library. The European Parliament and Council of Europe can be visited for free (booking advised). Batorama cruise on the Ill (1h15, €14) for an overview.

Colmar is the 2nd city to see. The Little Venice (boatmen's quarter along the Lauch) is one of France's most photogenic sites: colourful half-timbered houses by the water. The Maison Pfister (1537, Renaissance house with oriel) and the Maison des Têtes (1609, façade with 106 carved heads) are masterpieces of Alsatian domestic architecture. The Unterlinden Museum (former 13th-century Dominican convent) houses the Isenheim Altarpiece by Matthias Grünewald (1512-1516) — one of the absolute masterpieces of Western art, to see absolutely. The Saint-Martin Collegiate, the Bartholdi Museum (birthplace of the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty), the Maison Adolph, the Place des Dominicains are other essentials. Covered market (food) every day except Sunday.

The Alsace Wine Route (170 km from Marlenheim in the north to Thann in the south) crosses 70 classified wine villages. The essentials: Riquewihr (the most iconic, one of France's Most Beautiful Villages, perfectly preserved, to avoid in peak summer due to crowds), Kaysersberg (Favourite Village of the French 2017, imperial castle, fortified bridge, renowned Kaysersberg wines), Eguisheim (Favourite Village of the French 2013, round like a half-timbering, Three Towers episcopal castle), Ribeauvillé (3 medieval châteaux to visit on foot, exceptional view of the Alsace plain), Hunawihr (Most Beautiful Village, free storks to observe), Mittelbergheim (Most Beautiful Village, in the vines), Obernai (northern gateway of the Route), Bergheim (intact medieval gate), Turckheim (traditional night watchman every evening from May to October at 10 pm, lantern in hand, singing in Alsatian — unique experience). In each village, wine estate tastings (€5-15).

The Haut-Kœnigsbourg castle (11th century, restored by Emperor Wilhelm II in 1900) dominates the Alsace plain at 757 m altitude. It is one of Alsace's most visited sites (550,000 visitors/year) — masterful historical reconstitution of a typical feudal fortress. 1h30-2h visit (€9), exceptional panorama over the Vosges, the Black Forest and the Alps on clear days. 30 min by car from Sélestat (TGV station), 1h from Colmar.

The Vosges offer nature: Vosges Massif (Grand Ballon 1,424 m, Hohneck 1,363 m, Ballon d'Alsace 1,247 m), Vosges lakes (Gérardmer the largest, Blanc, Noir, Truite, Longemer), Munster valley (emblematic Alsatian valley, AOP cheese). Gérardmer is the leading resort (winter ski station, magnificent lake in summer). La Bresse and Le Bonhomme for family skiing. Crests Road (D430): 70 km of panoramic road from Bonhomme pass to Bussang pass — one of France's most beautiful roads, accessible from May to October.

Finally, the Christmas markets make Alsace in December a unique destination. Strasbourg: 11 markets spread across the city (Christkindelsmärik), giant 30 m tree, exceptional illuminations. Colmar: 6 themed markets. Riquewihr, Kaysersberg, Eguisheim, Mulhouse: more intimate markets. Bredele (Christmas biscuits), mulled wine, sugar waffles, manèles (Saint Nicholas-shaped brioches on 6 December), Christstollen (Christmas cake)...