Things to do — Alexandria

The Alexandria and Mediterranean region offers an experience that combines Greco-Roman ancient heritage, cosmopolitan atmosphere, Mediterranean beaches and Saharan adventure. Here are the must-sees.

In Alexandria, the exploration is organised around three poles. The Greco-Roman ancient sites: Kom el-Shoqafa catacombs (1st-2nd century AD, three underground levels, unique mixture of Egyptian, Greek and Roman iconography — one of the most beautiful ancient necropolises in the world, €6); Pompey's Pillar (vestige of the Serapeum, 3rd century, 27 m high, no connection to Pompey the general despite the name, €4); Roman amphitheatre (2nd century, 13 rows of white marble, €4). The contemporary Bibliotheca Alexandrina (inaugurated in 2002, solar disc architecture 160 m in diameter, one of the most beautiful libraries in the world — 8 million books, 4 internal museums, 13 research libraries, planetarium, €10 combined entry). The Citadel of Qaitbay (15th century, built with the stones of the collapsed lighthouse, at the end of the peninsula, panoramic view of the bay, €6). The National Museum of Alexandria (reopened in 2003, Sherif Pasha Square, traces the history of the city from Antiquity to today, €6). In addition, stroll along the corniche at sunset, take tea at the legendary Cecil Hotel (1929, where Cairo spies stayed during World War II), and explore the Greek Quarter (Adib, Mahmoud Abou el Ela streets) with its cosmopolitan cafés still animated by the last Greeks and Italians of Alexandria.

El Alamein (100 km west of Alexandria, 1h30 by car) preserves the memory of the World War II battles of October-November 1942, which marked a turning point in the North African conflict. Three military cemeteries (British of 7,240 graves, German of 4,200 graves in an imposing hexagonal mausoleum, Italian of 4,800 graves in Doric colonnade), three military museums (Egyptian, German recently restored, Italian). Moving and historical visit, about 3-4h on site. Combinable with a lunch in Sidi Abdel Rahman or Marsa Matrouh.

Marsa Matrouh (290 km west of Alexandria, 4h by car) is the reference seaside resort for Egyptians — magnificent beaches (Cleopatra Beach with its rock formations and its 'Cleopatra bath' carved into the rock, Agiba Beach with its panoramic view of a turquoise cove inaccessible on foot, Almaza Bay modern resort). Accommodation and catering correct but without particular charm. To combine with El Alamein in a 2-3 day circuit on the north coast.

The Siwa Oasis (8h by bus from Cairo or 5h from Marsa Matrouh, 50 km from the Libyan border) is one of the most authentic destinations in Egypt. On site: temple of Amun (where Alexander the Great was proclaimed son of Amun in 331 BC by the oracle, accessible ruins), Shali Fortress (13th century, citadel of crystallised salt bricks partially collapsed after the 1926 rains — emblem of Siwa), Cleopatra's Bath (hot spring at 30 °C, swimming possible — respectful dress code for women), Jebel Dakrour (hill with therapeutic virtues, sand baths against rheumatism practised in summer), Siwi House Museum (Berber architecture and crafts). For the desert adventure, count 2-3 days of 4x4 excursion: Great Sand Sea (immense dunes to the south-west, sandboard, unforgettable sunrise and sunset), Bir Wahed (hot spring and salt lake amid the dunes), crystalline springs (Cleopatra's Spring, Tamusi). Stay at Adrère Amellal (eco-lodge in salt bricks without electricity, oil lamps, Arabian Nights atmosphere, €400-700/night) or in more modest hotels in the centre (Shali Lodge, Siwa Inn, €30-80/night).

The White Desert is visited by 4x4 excursion with guide (2-3 days from Bahariya 360 km from Cairo or from Siwa, €200-400/person in organised group). Classic programme: Cairo-Bahariya journey (5h by bus), bath in a Bedouin hot spring, visit to the Ptolemaic tombs of Bahariya, departure by 4x4 to the Black Desert (black volcanic formations) then the White Desert, night under Bedouin tent with meals around the fire, observation of the stars in a sky of absolute purity, sunrise over the chalk formations, return to Bahariya then Cairo the next day.