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Siem Reap
The gateway to Angkor — a human-scale city fully adapted to travellers, with hotels for all budgets, quality Khmer gastronomy, colourful markets and an international atmosphere.
Siem Reap (250,000 inhabitants, Cambodia's second city) is the unmissable tourist base to visit the Angkor archaeological site (6 km north). Its name literally means "defeat of Siam" — reference to Khmer victories over Thai armies in the 16th century. Sleepy small town 30 years ago, it has entirely transformed since Angkor's UNESCO listing in 1992 and now welcomes over 2 million tourists per year.
The city is organised around the Siem Reap River (descending from the northern mountain foothills to the Tonle Sap in the south) and around the Old Market (Phsar Chas, traditional market) and the famous Pub Street — flashy and crowded but unmissable for its nightlife (restaurants, bars, Khmer massages, night markets). Seasoned travellers prefer the adjacent alleys (Alley West, Hap Guan Street, Sok San Road) which are more authentic.
The hotel infrastructure is complete. From backpacker dorm at USD 8/night to boutique hotels at USD 50-90/night up to the iconic 5-star Raffles Grand Hôtel d'Angkor (USD 350-700/night, built in 1932 by the French, frequented by Charlie Chaplin, Jackie Kennedy and Bill Clinton) and Belmond La Résidence d'Angkor (USD 300-500/night). Eco-resorts on the outskirts offer a more immersive experience: Phum Baitang (USD 200-400/night, villas in a rice field), Templation (USD 150-250).
The gastronomy is one of Siem Reap's most beautiful surprises. High Khmer gastronomy has its temple here: Cuisine Wat Damnak (chef Joannès Rivière, trained at Académie Culinaire de Paris, ranked Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2015-2019, 5-course tasting menu USD 32 to 7-course USD 50 — reservation 2-3 weeks ahead, closed Sunday and Monday) offers sublime contemporary Khmer cuisine from local products. Marum (TREE collective, USD 12-25, street youth training), Pou Restaurant (high Khmer gastronomy, USD 30-50) complete the scene.
Activities beyond temples are numerous: Phare The Cambodian Circus (social acrobatic circus supporting disadvantaged children, USD 18-38 evening shows, highly recommended), Khmer cooking classes (USD 15-35), Apsara dance show with dinner (USD 35-90), APOPO Visitor Center (HeroRATs trained to detect mines, USD 10), Cambodia Landmine Museum (25 km, USD 5).
What we love
- ✅Ideal tourist base for Angkor: 6 km from the site, omnipresent tuk-tuks, complete infrastructure
- ✅Pub Street and Old Market: lively nightlife, authentic markets, international atmosphere
- ✅Quality Khmer gastronomy: Cuisine Wat Damnak (Asia's 50 Best), Marum, Pou Restaurant
- ✅Hotels for all budgets: USD 8/night in dorm to USD 700 at Raffles Grand Hôtel d'Angkor
- ✅Phare The Cambodian Circus: world-unique social acrobatic circus, must-see
What to know
- ❌Pub Street has become flashy and crowded — prefer adjacent alleys
- ❌City entirely touristic — little authenticity in the centre
- ❌Tuk-tuk scams frequent — negotiate before departure, fix the itinerary
- ❌Pushy street vendors in front of Old Market and Pub Street
- ❌The new airport (REP) since 2023 is 40 km east (USD 25 transfer, 45 min)
Situation
Où se situe Siem Reap ?
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Our verdict
Siem Reap is the ideal tourist base to visit Angkor — a human-scale city fully adapted to travellers, with hotels for all budgets, quality Khmer gastronomy, colourful markets and an international atmosphere. Plan at least 4 nights for 3 full days of Angkor visits (3-day pass at USD 62 usable over 10 days) + 1 day to explore the city. Travel from November to February for the climate (book 3-4 months ahead), stay in the centre (Old Market zone, 5 min walk from Pub Street) or in a peripheral eco-resort (Phum Baitang, Templation) for more calm. Avoid Pub Street late at night (crowded and flashy), explore the adjacent alleys (Alley West, Hap Guan Street, Sok San Road) for more authenticity. Don't miss the Phare Cambodian Circus — one of the most moving shows in Southeast Asia.
Nearby
"Janvier : pic de saison, hôtels saturés, conditions parfaites. Réserver 4 mois à l'avance."
Expert on Siem Reap · 1 contributions
South-East Asia Desk — Mowando·Editor