Salvador

Salvador da Bahia is Brazil's cultural and historical capital — founded on March 29, 1549 by Tomé de Sousa on King John III of Portugal's order, it was colonial Brazil's first capital for 214 years (until transfer to Rio in 1763) and remains today the epicentre of Afro-Brazilian culture. With 3.5 million inhabitants (country's 4th city), Salvador concentrates Brazil's most mixed and rhythmic dimension — where capoeira, candomblé, axé, dendê cuisine and the world's most participatory popular carnival take root.

The Pelourinho (historic centre, named after the pillory where slaves were punished), UNESCO-listed in 1985, is one of Latin America's best-preserved colonial architectural ensembles. 800 17th-18th century buildings painted in vivid colours (yellow, blue, pink, green), 17 Baroque churches (including Igreja de São Francisco, 1708, interior entirely covered with 100 kg of gold — Brazil's most precious colonial Baroque heritage), cobblestone squares (Largo do Pelourinho, Terreiro de Jesus with 1672 primatial cathedral), steep picturesque streets (Ladeira do Carmo, Rua das Laranjeiras, Rua João de Deus). This is where Afro-Bahian culture flourishes — daily capoeira rodas at Forte da Capoeira, candomblé in nearby terreiros (Casa Branca, Ilê Axé Opô Afonjá), world-famous percussion groups (Olodum which influenced Michael Jackson with They Don't Care About Us video shot in Pelourinho in 1996, Ilê Aiyê).

Salvador's geography is unique. The city sits on an 80 m cliff overlooking the Baía de Todos os Santos (Bay of All Saints, 1,250 km² with 56 islands, Brazil's largest navigable bay), creating a radical opposition between the Cidade Alta (Upper City, at 80 m altitude where Pelourinho, Terreiro de Jesus, 1873 Elevador Lacerda are) and Cidade Baixa (Lower City, at sea level, port, Mercado Modelo former slave market turned artisan market, iconic Porto da Barra beach). The Elevador Lacerda (1873, Brazil's first urban elevator, 72 m, 4 cabins), connecting both levels for 0.15 BRL (€0.03), is an iconic landmark.

Beyond Pelourinho, several other hubs in Salvador. Barra (southern peninsula, family beaches Porto da Barra and Farol da Barra with iconic 1696 lighthouse, Farol da Barra museum and rooftop restaurant), Rio Vermelho (northern bohemian neighbourhood, music and restaurant scene, location of Iemanjá Festival February 2), Itapagipe (northern peninsula, Senhor do Bonfim Basilica — major pilgrimage site with multi-coloured bonfim ribbons, syncretic religious fervour), Pituba and Boca do Rio (modern neighbourhoods, calmer beaches).

Afro-Bahian culture is particularly alive. Capoeira (UNESCO 2014) practised in daily rodas at Forte da Capoeira (free 5pm-8pm, exceptional demonstrations), at Associação de Capoeira Mestre Bimba (historic school founded 1932). Candomblé practised in terreiros — respectful visit possible at Casa Branca (Ilê Axé Iyá Nassô Oká, founded around 1830, one of Brazil's oldest terreiros, free with offering), Ilê Axé Opô Afonjá (Mãe Stella, classified national heritage). Percussion groups play in Pelourinho — Olodum Tuesdays and Sundays (8pm, Praça Tereza Batista, €10-25), Ilê Aiyê Saturdays (Liberdade, €15-20), Didá Banda Feminina (100% female group, Sundays, €10-15).