Rio de Janeiro

Rio de Janeiro is probably the world's most beautiful urban landscape — a metropolis of 6.7 million inhabitants (12 million in metro area) nestled between the Atlantic Ocean to the south, Guanabara Bay to the north and granite and gneiss hills sculpted by tropical climate. This exceptional site, called "world's most beautiful urban site" by geographer Jean-Paul Brunet, earned the city its UNESCO listing in 2012 ("Rio de Janeiro, carioca landscapes between mountain and sea"). Founded in 1565 by Estácio de Sá as São Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro, it was Brazil's capital from 1763 to 1960 (until transfer to Brasília by Juscelino Kubitschek) and remains the country's cultural, media and tourism capital.

The unique geography organises around four elements. The morros (granite hills) emerge in the middle of the city like sentinels — Sugarloaf (Pão de Açúcar, 396 m, accessible by mythical cable car since 1912), Corcovado (710 m, topped by Christ the Redeemer since 1931), Pedra da Gávea (842 m, 6h hike), Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers, 533 m, Ipanema panorama). Guanabara Bay (412 km², 130 islands) extends to the north — site of Galeão international airport. The Atlantic Ocean bathes the mythical beaches to the south. The Tijuca Forest (world's largest urban forest, 4,000 hectares, national park) covers the city's inner flanks and hosts surprising wildlife (capuchin monkeys, marmosets, sloths, toucans).

Beaches are the backbone of carioca life. Copacabana (4 km of continuous white sand crescent beach between Forte de Copacabana to the south and Forte Duque de Caxias to the north, world-famous tile-mosaic calçadão by Roberto Burle Marx) is the iconic beach. Ipanema (2.5 km, bordered east by Arpoador rock where thousands gather to applaud the daily sunset, immortalised by Tom Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes bossa nova — The Girl from Ipanema is the world's 2nd most recorded song after the Beatles' Yesterday) is more chic. Leblon (1.5 km, Ipanema extension westward) is Rio's chicest beach. Botafogo (on the bay, extraordinary Sugarloaf view) is more family. Praia Vermelha (red beach, departure of Sugarloaf cable car) is small and charming.

Zona Sul (south) neighbourhoods concentrate most tourist interest. Copacabana (maximum density, full hotel range €50-500/night). Ipanema (more chic, gourmet restaurants, designer boutiques). Leblon (Ipanema extension, the chicest). Botafogo (bay view, gastronomy). Urca (at Sugarloaf foot, peaceful residential neighbourhood). Santa Teresa (bohemian hill neighbourhood, unique vibe, artist workshops, colourful Selarón steps, historic bondinho yellow tramway). Lapa (nighttime epicentre, Arcos da Lapa 1750 aqueduct, samba in traditional clubs Rio Scenarium, Carioca da Gema). Centro (historic centre, don't sleep but visit by day: Theatro Municipal 1909, Real Gabinete Português de Leitura 1887, Confeitaria Colombo 1894, Praça XV).

Carioca life revolves around three pillars — the beach (central social space, volleyball, futevôlei, capoeira, coconut juice, beer, endless conversations), samba and bossa nova (Lapa for popular samba in rodas, Ipanema for chic bossa nova at iconic Garota de Ipanema bar where the song was composed), football (Maracanã 78,000 seats, one of the world's most mythical stadiums, Flamengo/Fluminense/Vasco/Botafogo matches €8-30/seat, authentic cultural experience).