Things to do — Mirissa

Mirissa's flagship attraction is undoubtedly blue whale watching. The boat trip is the experience not to be missed between December and April.

Departure is at dawn (5:30-6 am) from Mirissa's small harbour. The crossing to the observation zone takes 1 to 1h30 (whales operate 10-15 km offshore, in deep water on the edge of the continental shelf). A good trip allows observation of 3 to 6 blue whales, often accompanied by Bryde's whales, dolphins (sometimes in their hundreds — spinner dolphins, Fraser's dolphins), green sea turtles, and more rarely sperm whales or orcas. Blue whales surface every 10-15 minutes to breathe; their vertical blow can reach 10 m high and is visible for several kilometres. The dorsal fin and tail (which rises just before deep diving) are the iconic images you'll take home. Return to harbour around 11-12 pm. Cost: 5,000-8,000 LKR (£13-22) per person for responsible operators.

Choosing a responsible operator is crucial. The cheapest operators (3,000-4,000 LKR) cram 30-40 people per boat, approach within less than 50 m of whales (the regulatory distance is 100 m), and practice chasing — stressful for the animals and dangerous for passengers. Recommended operators: Raja and the Whales (the pioneer, founded by a marine biologist), Mirissa Water Sports, Whales Tours Sri Lanka. They limit passenger numbers (15-20 per boat), respect distances and provide scientific explanations during the trip.

The Mirissa beach stretches 1.5 km of golden sand, lined with coconut and palm trees. The eastern part is livelier (beach-shack restaurants, bars, surf), the western part quieter (families). The beach-shack restaurants lined up on the sand are the evening institution: you dine feet in the sand at sunset, with grilled fish (snapper, grouper, tuna) brought back from the local fish market, seafood grills and fresh fruit. Best addresses: Zephyr Restaurant, Dewmini Roti Shop, Margarita's, Papa Mango.

Coconut Tree Hill has become in five years one of Sri Lanka's most iconic photo spots. This small point above the sea, covered in swaying coconut palms, offers a spectacular view over Mirissa bay. Accessible on foot from the main beach (10-min walk by a path), ideal at sunset. Warning: very busy between 5 and 6:30 pm, with queues for the iconic photo. To avoid the crowd, come at dawn (6 am) — the light is just as beautiful and you'll be alone.

Surf at Weligama (5 km west of Mirissa, 15 min by tuk-tuk for 500 LKR) is one of the world's references for learning. Waves are gentle, regular, safe (sand, no reef), and there are dozens of surf schools offering beginner lessons (£22-35 for 2 hours with board and wetsuit). Optimal season: November to April (gentle constant waves).

Two excursions complete a Mirissa visit. Hiriketiya Beach (15 km east, 30 min by tuk-tuk): small crescent cove, intermediate surf (point break on the eastern tip), chic backpacker atmosphere with a few boutique hotels and cool cafés — has become very trendy in recent years. Tangalle (50 km east, 1 hour by tuk-tuk): wilder and less touristy beaches, ideal for travellers seeking quiet.