Saint-Denis is discovered essentially on foot in its compact historic centre. Here is the reference itinerary for a well-filled day.
Morning (9am-1pm): start with the Jardin de l'État (free entry, 8am-6pm). The Natural History Museum (€4, closed on Monday) houses in the garden the famous collection of extinct endemic birds of the Indian Ocean — one of the most moving collections in the world on extinction.
Go up on foot by the rue de Paris towards the administrative centre. Remarkable Creole houses to admire on the way: Villa Carrère (Prefecture), City Hall, Villa Déramond-Barre (museum, birthplace of Raymond Barre). The Saint-Denis Cathedral (neoclassical style, late 18th-early 19th century) is one of the major religious buildings.
Lunch break: Creole lunch in a good central table: Le Massalé (rue de Paris), Le Reflet des Îles, or street food at the Petit Marché. Count €12-25/person depending on the formula.
Afternoon (2pm-6pm): visit of the Noor-e-Islam Mosque (rue du Maréchal Leclerc, 1905) — outside prayer hours, respectful dress. Then Léon Dierx Museum (€4, modern art). Walk in the Chaudron district: Tamil temples, Creole market (Wednesday and Saturday), popular and authentic atmosphere.
Late afternoon - evening: direction the Barachois esplanade by the sea. Walk along the seafront, observation of colonial cannons pointed towards the ocean, terrace dinner facing the sunset. Several restaurants and bars (La Voile Blanche, l'Étoile de Mer, Roland Garros Café).
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