Indonesian food is one of the richest and most varied cuisines in Southeast Asia, carried by extraordinary agricultural biodiversity — spices, tropical fruits, rice, coconut — and a culinary tradition that changes shape from island to island. Its cornerstone is nasi goreng, the national fried rice with egg, vegetables and a choice of protein, served day and night in the warungs (local canteens) that anchor every Indonesian village. Its sibling mie goreng, the fried noodle version, is equally ubiquitous and arguably more satisfying after a long surf session.
In Indonesia, regional specialities tell the story of the archipelago. On Hindu Bali, babi guling — suckling pig stuffed with turmeric, ginger, galangal and lemongrass and slow-roasted on a spit until the skin reaches a varnish-thick crackle — is the showstopper. You will not find it on Muslim-majority islands, which makes it doubly worth tracking down in the warungs of Gianyar or central Ubud. Bebek betutu (duck slow-cooked in banana leaves with a fierce Balinese spice paste) is another ceremonial dish that has migrated onto mainstream restaurant menus. Satay, those grilled meat skewers served with peanut sauce, has a regional variation for every island; the chicken satay of Madura and the goat satay of Solo are both worth a detour. Sumatra's contribution, rendang, is a coconut-and-beef curry simmered for hours until the liquid evaporates almost entirely — repeatedly voted the best dish in the world in international polls, and rightly so.
For a fast introduction, head to a pasar malam (night market): martabak (a stuffed pancake), soto ayam (chicken and turmeric soup), pisang goreng (fried banana) and gado-gado (mixed vegetables with peanut sauce) cover a lot of ground for almost no money. In Bali, the village warungs around Ubud — Penestanan, Peliatan, Mas — serve authentic Balinese cooking far removed from the western-styled menus of Seminyak. Coffee lovers should make time for an Indonesian roast: the country is one of the world's largest producers, and the kopi luwak of Bali Kintamani, the heirloom coffees of Flores and the smoky beans of Toraja all deserve a proper tasting.
Read also
- Bali, the Island of the Gods — Ubud rice fields, Canggu surf, temples and wellness culture: the complete guide to Bali.
- Lombok and the Gili Islands — Mount Rinjani, the wild beaches of the south coast and the crystal-clear shallows of the Gilis.
- Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali — Terraced rice fields, the Monkey Forest and Balinese craft villages in the hills of Bali.
- Canggu, Bali's surf village — World-class waves, third-wave cafés and Indian Ocean sunsets on Bali's west coast.
- Gili Trawangan, the jewel of the Gilis — Snorkel with green turtles, white-sand beaches and a car-free island vibe.