Jaipur

Jaipur (3.1 million inhabitants) is the capital of Rajasthan and the 3rd classic stop of the Golden Triangle after Delhi and Agra. Founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II (1688-1743, amateur astronomer and visionary strategist who transferred his capital from Amber 11 km further north), the city was India's first example of planned urbanism — geometric grid of 9 squares (chowkris) inspired by Hindu Vastu Shastra, perfectly orthogonal wide avenues, monumental gates at 4 cardinal points. This rigorous planning makes Jaipur an exception in historical Indian urbanism and earned it UNESCO listing 2019.

Jaipur is nicknamed the "pink city" since 1876, when Maharaja Ram Singh II ordered the entire old town to be painted terracotta to welcome visiting Prince of Wales Edward VII. This tradition continues today: all buildings of the old town inside the ramparts must be painted pink-orange. It's one of India's most photogenic cities.

The must-see sites. At the old town's heart, City Palace (1727-1734, official residence of the royal Kachwaha family still occupying a private part today — current Maharaja Padmanabh Singh). Next to it, Hawa Mahal (1799, "Palace of Winds", 5-story palace in pink sandstone built by Sawai Pratap Singh to allow royal harem women to observe street processions without being seen — 953 jali windows). Next to it, Jantar Mantar (UNESCO 2010), 18th-century astronomical observatory built by Jai Singh II, 19 giant marble instruments including Samrat Yantra — the world's largest sundial (27 m high, theoretical 2-second precision).

11 km north of Jaipur, Amber Fort (UNESCO 2013) is the half-day major stop. Palace-fort in yellow sandstone and white marble built from 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh I. Inside: Sheesh Mahal ("Palace of Mirrors"), Diwan-i-Aam, Sukh Niwas. Access by jeep 4x4 (200-400 INR), on foot (15-20 min), or by elephant (ethically controversial).