When to go — East Fjords

The East Fjords are visited mainly from May to September — winter is harsh and some roads (notably 93 to Seyðisfjörður, 620 m pass) close frequently.

From June to August is the ideal season. All roads are open, days are long (16-21 h of light), villages come alive with the return of fishermen and visitors, and the Smyril Line ferry operates weekly. The Borgarfjörður Eystri peninsula welcomes its puffin colony (mid-June to mid-August), and wild reindeer are visible in the inland valleys. The Lunga Festival of alternative art and music at Seyðisfjörður (mid-July) draws artists and hippies from around the world. High hotel rates in July-August but significantly less than south coast or Reykjavik.

From May to September-October: interesting shoulder seasons. May offers the first puffins and the return of migratory birds. September-October brings the spectacular autumn colours (yellow birches in Hallormsstaðaskógur forest, red shrubs in the valleys) and the first Northern Lights from late August. Prices drop 30-40%, crowds almost completely disappear.

From November to March, the region is in quasi-hibernation. Route 1 remains drivable most of the time, but Route 93 to Seyðisfjörður can be closed several consecutive days in case of blizzard. Open lodgings are half as many, and several restaurants close. It is, however, an ideal season for Northern Lights (often clear skies, zero light pollution) and for the experience of absolute isolation. The domestic flight Reykjavik-Egilsstaðir is then more practical than the road. Winter should be reserved for experienced and flexible travellers.