Food — Greece

Greek cuisine is far more than a textbook Mediterranean diet — it is a philosophy of sharing, an invitation to slow down around a long table covered in small plates. Most meals in Greece begin with a sweep of mezze: creamy tzatziki, Santorini's earthy fava, taramosalata, dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), keftedes (herby meatballs), fried calamari and grilled octopus. These colourful little dishes, set in the middle of the table and shared by everyone, define the convivial spirit of the Greek taverna better than any guidebook can.

Among the classic dishes, moussaka (layered aubergine, minced meat and béchamel) and pastitsio (a Greek take on baked pasta) are reliable comforts. Souvlaki and gyros — grilled skewers or sliced meat tucked into pita with tzatziki, tomato and onion — are the country's defining street food, on sale for €3 to €4 in even the smallest villages. Grilled fish and seafood, usually sold by the kilo, are a coastal pleasure: sea bream, sea bass, octopus and prawns are everywhere on the islands. On Crete, the local twist is heavier on wild greens, snails and rustic dakos salads built on barley rusks.

Greek pantry staples are among the best in the world. Greece is the third-largest olive oil producer globally, with some of the finest single-estate oils sold by the village; PDO feta from sheep's milk is unmatched; thyme honey from Mount Hymettus or Crete is liquid sunshine; and the wild herbs — oregano, thyme, rosemary — that scent every plate are picked straight from the hillsides. The Greek salad (tomato, cucumber, onion, olives, feta, olive oil — never lettuce) is a national institution, simple and very nearly perfect.

Drinks-wise, anise-scented ouzo remains the national aperitif, served over ice with a few mezze. Tsipouro, a stronger grape spirit, is the favourite of mainland regions like Thessaly and Crete. Greek wine is enjoying a serious renaissance, and the assyrtiko of Santorini — flinty, saline, almost ageless — is now one of the most respected white wines in the Mediterranean. Coffee is a daily ritual too: in summer the foamy iced frappé rules every café terrace, while the small, strong Greek coffee in its tiny cup is a year-round morning rite. Eat and drink your way through Greece slowly, and you'll understand why so many trips to the country end with a suitcase noticeably heavier than on the way in.