The Old Port has been the city's heart for 26 centuries — fish market (Quai des Belges, every morning), walks along the quays, restaurants. Notre-Dame de la Garde ("la Bonne Mère", 19th-century basilica atop the hill dominating the city, accessible on foot or by little tourist train) — 360° panoramic view over Marseille, bay, calanques. The MuCEM (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations, Rudy Ricciotti's spectacular architecture, 2013) — free permanent collections, temporary exhibitions €11. The Panier (oldest district, medieval, now artistic, in colourful lanes) — essential. The La Major Cathedral (19th century, neo-Byzantine, striped façade). The Le Corbusier Cité Radieuse (UNESCO, 2 km from centre, paid visit €12).
The calanques (National Park since 2012) are the main natural attraction. 20 km of white limestone coastline plunging into turquoise water. On foot from Luminy (metro terminus + bus 21), Cassis or Marseilleveyre: Sormiou (1h), Morgiou (1h30), En-Vau (3h, the most iconic with pebble beach between cliffs), Sugiton (1h30, swimming possible). July-August regulation: Sormiou and Morgiou require free booking (calanques13.com). By boat: cruises from the Old Port (€15-30/person, 2-4h, multiple calanques visited). By kayak from Callelongue (€30-50/half-day).
The districts: Cours Julien (street art, trendy bars and restaurants), Vallon des Auffes (miniature fishing port at the foot of the Corniche, bouillabaisse restaurants), Endoume (chic residential, sea view), Joliette (modern business district, MuCEM).
Nearby: Cassis (15 km, picturesque port at the foot of Cap Canaille, AOC Cassis vineyards), Aix-en-Provence (30 min, cours Mirabeau, Cézanne studio, Provençal market), Camargue (1h30, black bulls, white horses, pink flamingos), Avignon (1h by TGV, UNESCO Palace of the Popes).