Itineraries — Santiago East

South-East and Santiago demands a particular commitment from the traveller — geographic distance from Havana (870 km), intense tropical heat, limited infrastructure, but in return an incomparably intense Cuban experience. This is where the most authentic, most African, most rebellious Cuba lies — the one classic tourist circuits often ignore.

The ideal Oriente itinerary begins with a domestic flight from Havana to Santiago (1h30, Cubana or Aerogaviota, €100-180 return). Plan 4 nights in Santiago de Cuba to absorb the country's second city: the colonial historic centre (Parque Céspedes, Casa Diego Velázquez, Cathedral, Hotel Casa Granda), revolution sites (Moncada barracks, Santa Ifigenia cemetery with the Martí mausoleum and Castro's tomb), the UNESCO Castillo del Morro in late afternoon (cannon ceremony at sunset), and absolutely two evenings at the Casa de la Trova and a local music peña.

From Santiago, head to Baracoa via the La Farola road (4-5h, one of the most beautiful roads in Cuba along the Sierra del Purial). Two to three nights in Baracoa: colonial historic centre (Fuerte Matachín, Cruz de la Parra, Cathedral), half-day at Maguana beach, climb of El Yunque (575 m), visit to the chocolate factories (Casa del Chocolate, tasting), cocoa cuisine in a paladar (fish in coconut sauce, cucurucho).

Return to Santiago, then a day incursion into the Sierra Maestra from Bartolomé Masó or Santo Domingo. The Comandancia de la Plata (Castro's former HQ during the revolution, reached on a day hike with mandatory guide, €30-40) is the major historic site. For confirmed hikers, climb Pico Turquino (1,974 m) in 2-3 days with guide and refuge overnight. Return by plane or bus to Havana.