South Cambodia

The Cambodian south coast extends over 440 km along the Gulf of Thailand — a coastal strip long forgotten by major Southeast Asian tourist flows, now accessible but still partly preserved. It's discovered via four complementary hubs: the port city of Sihanoukville (to avoid), the charming towns of Kampot and Kep, and especially the tropical islands archipelago (Koh Rong, Koh Rong Samloem, Koh Sdach) which constitute the essential beach interest of the country.

Sihanoukville has undergone brutal transformation since 2017 — massive arrival of Chinese investments and tourists has covered the waterfront with casinos and skyscrapers, disfiguring a once-charming natural site. The city as a tourist destination has lost all interest and is only crossed today to reach the islands by boat from Serendipity Beach port. We discourage staying there.

Kampot (40,000 inhabitants, 150 km from Phnom Penh) is the opposite. Small French colonial town with weathered stucco houses by the eponymous river, it lives off Kampot pepper — the only Cambodian spice classified as Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) since 2010 and recognised among the world's best peppers. Several plantations are open to visit. Kampot also offers a quality cocktail and dining scene, a bohemian expat atmosphere, and the Bokor Plateau national park (1,080 m altitude, former French 1920s hill station transformed into a spectral resort — abandoned casino, panoramic sea view, cool climate).

Kep (35 km south of Kampot, 15,000 inhabitants) is the other gem of the coast. Former beach resort of the French and Cambodian elite in the 1960s (King Sihanouk had his villa there), it was destroyed during the civil war and never recovered its lustre — but this quietude is precisely its charm. The Kep beach is modest but the Kampot green-pepper crab is mythical: to taste at the crab market (Kep Crab Market, USD 10-15 per crab depending on season). Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay, 20 min by boat, USD 8 return) offers a quiet beach and a few rustic bungalows.

The islands archipelago off Sihanoukville constitutes the essential beach dimension of the south coast. Koh Rong (74 km², country's 2nd largest island) is the best known — its Koh Toch beach (7 km of perfect white sand) is a Southeast Asian backpacking icon. The island offers 23 beaches, bioluminescent plankton visible on moonless nights (October-March), bungalows from USD 8/night to USD 200-400/night. Koh Rong Samloem (the twin 10 km south, smaller and quieter) offers Saracen Bay — 2.5 km crescent beach lined with upmarket eco-resorts (Sol Beach, The One Resort) — it's the most appreciated mid-range/luxury option.