Itineraries — North Vietnam

North Vietnam lends itself to very different itineraries depending on how long you have and what draws you in, but they all revolve around three fundamental poles: Hanoi, the thousand-year-old capital where Vietnamese history can be read in every lane of the Old Quarter; Ha Long Bay and its thousands of limestone islets explored by junk boat; and Sapa, the mountain town that serves as the base for treks through H'Mong and Dao hill-tribe villages.

For a short trip (5-7 days), pick two poles. Hanoi plus Ha Long is the classic combination for a first visit: two days in Hanoi's Old Quarter for temples, markets and street food, then two nights cruising Ha Long Bay to experience the karsts in their nocturnal intimacy, away from daytime crowds. This circuit wraps up in five days and delivers a powerful image of northern Vietnam without feeling rushed.

Over a week (7-10 days), the itinerary gains considerably in depth: after Hanoi (2 days) and Ha Long (2 nights), an overnight train to Lào Cai then a bus up to Sapa opens 2-3 days of trekking through Black H'Mong villages of Cat Cat and Ta Phin. This circuit covers the north's essentials, combining the cultural richness of the capital, the natural spectacle of the bay and the authenticity of the mountain villages.

With 10-14 days, the trip expands to include a Ninh Binh circuit — dubbed the terrestrial Ha Long Bay for its karsts rising from rivers and rice fields — and the Red River Delta in spring. Adventure motorcyclists add the Ha Giang loop, Vietnam's finest road trip: four days around the Dong Van plateau between limestone cliffs, vertiginous passes and weekly minority markets, an experience that ranks North Vietnam among Asia's great motorcycle destinations.