Things to do — North Vietnam

North Vietnam concentrates some of the most intense experiences in the entire country. Three destinations structure the heart of any trip to the region.

Hanoi, thousand-year-old capital and one of Southeast Asia's most beautiful cities, is best discovered on foot through the ancient 36 Guilds Quarter (Pho Co), where every street still carries the name of the trade that occupied it for centuries. The Temple of Literature (Van Mieu), founded in 1070 as Vietnam's first university; the One Pillar Pagoda; Hoan Kiem Lake with its Turtle Tower; and the French colonial quarter with its yellow villas and Opera House together make Hanoi's heritage visit one of the richest in the region. Hanoi street food is best explored at around 7 am — phở in unmarked shophouses, bún chả on the pavement — and in the evening on Ta Hien Street (Beer Street) for a bia hoi (fresh draught beer at 30 cents) among the regulars.

Ha Long Bay on a 2-night cruise is the emblematic experience of the north. The secret is to get away from the most frequented zones: Lan Ha Bay, adjacent to Ha Long, concentrates the same karst scenery with half the boats. On-board activities include kayaking into inner lagoons, exploring caves (Thien Cung, Bo Nau), tai chi at sunrise on the deck, and nights spent between islets in absolute silence broken only by the lapping of the water.

Sapa and its surroundings offer Vietnam's finest trekking. One to three-day circuits through Black H'Mong villages (Cat Cat, Lao Chai, Ta Van) and Red Dao settlements (Ta Phin) allow visitors to discover textile crafts, timber architecture and mountain farming life. The Bac Ha market, 60 km from Sapa, is the most colourful and authentic in the region — held on Sunday mornings, it draws a dozen different ethnic groups in traditional dress. For experienced hikers, the ascent of Fansipan (3,143 m) over 2-3 days is Vietnam's most demanding and most rewarding mountain trek.