Things to do — Cultural Triangle

The Cultural Triangle offers an experience that combines archaeology, living Buddhist spirituality and wildlife observation in a tightly framed geographical area.

At Sigiriya, the climb of the Lion Rock remains the flagship experience. Start at opening time (7 a.m.) to avoid crowds and heat. The path crosses the royal gardens (Water Gardens and Boulder Gardens), passes the gallery of frescoes of the Maidens (no photos allowed), crosses the Lion Platform of which only the monumental paws remain, and ends at the summit on the palace ruins and a 360° panorama over the jungle. Allow 2.5 to 3 hours. Less-frequented alternative: Pidurangala Rock, 4 km away, offers an identical panorama over Sigiriya for just USD 5 with a wilder scramble (1h one-way).

At Polonnaruwa, hire a bicycle (USD 4/day) at the site entrance and explore the ancient city following the marked circuit. Highlights: the Sacred Quadrangle (with the circular Vatadage), Parakramabahu's Royal Palace, the Lankatilaka (huge pavilion sheltering a mutilated Buddha) and especially the Gal Vihara, four giant Buddhas carved directly into the rock — the 14-metre reclining Buddha is a summit of world Buddhist art.

At Anuradhapura, the exploration is organised around three great dagobas: Ruwanwelisaya (1st century BC, 103 metres tall, still in active religious use), Jetavanaramaya (3rd century, originally 122 metres, the second-largest brick structure in the world after the pyramids) and Abhayagiriya. The Sri Maha Bodhi, the sacred Bodhi tree planted in 247 BC, is the object of intense devotion — the evening ceremony with white-clad pilgrims and candles is unforgettable. Allow a full day, ideally by bicycle (USD 5/day) to cover the distances.

At Dambulla, the five painted caves can be visited in 1h30. Covered clothing required (shoulders and knees), shoes to be left at the entrance. Visit in the late afternoon to avoid heat and crowds. The huge golden Buddha statue at the entrance is a recent addition (2000) often considered kitsch but unmissable.

At Kandy, the Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa) houses Sri Lanka's most sacred relic — a tooth of the Buddha brought from India in the 4th century. Ceremonies (pujas) take place at 5.30 a.m., 9.30 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. and offer an immersion in living Buddhist spirituality (white attire recommended but not compulsory). Round it out with the Royal Botanical Gardens of Peradeniya (6 km from the centre), one of the most beautiful tropical gardens in Asia, and an evening Kandyan dance show.