7 days in Morocco: Marrakech, Atlas and desert express

Day by day

1. 1

   Day 1

   Arrival in Marrakech — first plunge into the medina

   Land at Marrakech-Menara airport (code RAK), 6 km from the centre. Official petit taxi (beige) to the medina: 70-80 MAD (€7-8), fixed fare negotiated before boarding — no meter required. Drop-off at Bab Doukkala or Bab el-Jedid depending on your riad — cars cannot enter the medina.

   First night in a traditional riad: Riad Yasmine (Derb Sidi Ahmed Ou Moussa, from 600 MAD / €60 per night, patio draped in bougainvillea, central pool) or Riad BE (near Jemaa el-Fna, 700-900 MAD / €70-90). Don't try to sightsee tonight: drop the bags, sip mint tea on the rooftop terrace, watch the medina's rooftops turn orange at dusk.

   Dinner on Jemaa el-Fna: the food stalls light up at 7pm — harira (3 MAD / €0.30), lamb brochettes (30-40 MAD / €3-4), freshly squeezed orange juice (4 MAD / €0.40). Avoid the restaurants lining the northern edge of the square — mediocre quality, tourist prices. A more considered option for this first evening: Nomad (rooftop terrace, modern Moroccan cuisine, reservation recommended, main courses 100-140 MAD / €10-14).

   Tips

   • · Official airport taxi: 70-80 MAD (€7-8) fixed — reject any driver who approaches outside the official rank or proposes a 'special' fare.
   • · Riad rooms: ask for a room without a street-facing window to sleep well — the alleyways echo until midnight, especially in high season.
   Marrakech →
2. 2

   Day 2

   Marrakech — souks, Bahia Palace and Majorelle Gardens

   Full day in Marrakech. Start early (8:30am) in the medina souks before midday heat and tour groups arrive: spice souk (Rahba Kedima), coloured babouche souk, Berber carpet souk, tanners' souk. A certified neighbourhood guide (200-300 MAD / €20-30 for a half-day, booked via the riad) is helpful on the first morning but not essential with a good map. Never accept an offer to be 'shown around' by a stranger — it's always a commissioned merchant visit.

   Bahia Palace in the afternoon (70 MAD / €7, open 9am-5pm): a labyrinth of courtyards, turquoise zellige tiles and 19th-century arabesque woodwork. Then a petit taxi (20 MAD / €2) to the Majorelle Gardens (entry 150 MAD / €15). Majorelle blue, giant cacti, lily ponds — arrive at 3-4pm for golden light and thinner crowds.

   Dinner at Le Foundouk restaurant (near Medersa Ben Youssef, in a 17th-century caravanserai, main courses 120-180 MAD / €12-18, exceptional setting, reservation required). For a more accessible option, Café Clock (Derb Chtouka, camel burgers + live music evenings, 70-100 MAD / €7-10).

   Tips

   • · Majorelle Gardens: book online at jardinmajorelle.com to skip the queue (150 MAD / €15, same price as the counter but no wait — the line can exceed 45 min in high season).
   • · Shopping in the souks: start negotiating from 40% of the asking price for craft items — the vendor expects it. Never show excessive enthusiasm before bargaining.
   Marrakech →
3. 3

   Day 3

   Marrakech — Jemaa el-Fna, hammam and last evening in the medina

   Third and final day in Marrakech before the big departure south. Morning for missed visits or wandering: Medersa Ben Youssef (70 MAD / €7, open 9am-6pm), one of Morocco's finest examples of Merinid architecture — white marble courtyard, mashrabiya screens, carved cedar staircases. Then the Marrakech Museum (50 MAD / €5, 19th-century building, Islamic art collections).

   Afternoon: traditional neighbourhood hammam — a must before the long southern crossing. Hammam Bab Doukkala (80-120 MAD / €8-12, scrub included) is authentic and frequented by locals. For a more comfortable version, some riads offer their own hammam (150-200 MAD / €15-20). Allow at least 1h30.

   Last evening in the medina: climb to a rooftop café terrace to watch Jemaa el-Fna come alive at nightfall — Café de France or Grand Balcon du Café Glacier (drinks 20-30 MAD / €2-3, unbeatable view). Dinner at Nomad if not yet tried, or at one of the small medina restaurants near the Kissaria. Early night — departure at 7:30am tomorrow.

   Tips

   • · Traditional hammam: choose a neighbourhood hammam over tourist establishments — the experience is more authentic and the price 3-4 times lower.
   • · Prepare for tomorrow's van: if your transfer is arranged through the riad or an agency, confirm the departure time the evening before (7:30am to reach Aït Benhaddou at the ideal hour).
   Marrakech →
4. 4

   Day 4

   Marrakech → Aït Benhaddou → Ouarzazate (private van)

   Depart at 7:30am by private van from the riad (arrangeable via the riad or a local agency, allow 800-1,200 MAD / €80-120 for 4 people for the full day to Ouarzazate). Take national road N9 towards the Tizi n'Tichka pass (2,260 m): 190 km of spectacular switchbacks, Berber villages clinging to High Atlas slopes, unforgettable panoramas. Photo stop at the pass is recommended.

   Aït Benhaddou (UNESCO site, free entry, optional local guide 80-100 MAD / €8-10): an ochre pisé ksar immortalised by Gladiator, Game of Thrones and Lawrence of Arabia. Cross the river on stepping stones and climb to the collective granary at the top — a plunging view over the Drâa plain. Allow 1h30 for the visit.

   Ouarzazate 30 km away, arriving around 3-4pm. A strategic staging town nicknamed 'Hollywood of Africa' for its film studios. Optional quick visit to CLA Studios (60 MAD / €6) or the Taourirt Kasbah (30 MAD / €3). Dinner at Kasbah Café (lamb tagine with prunes and almonds 70-90 MAD / €7-9) or Chez Dimitri (Franco-Moroccan cuisine, local institution since 1928, main courses 100-150 MAD / €10-15). Night at Hôtel Berbère Palace (350-500 MAD / €35-50) or a guesthouse.

   Tips

   • · Private van vs shared taxi: a private van for 4 works out cheaper than 4 shared taxi fares (800-1,200 MAD / €80-120 total) and gives the flexibility of photo stops and the Aït Benhaddou visit en route.
   • · Aït Benhaddou: arrive before 11am or after 4pm to avoid coach groups. The river bed may be dry in summer (easy crossing) but flooded in winter — wooden planks allow crossing.
5. 5

   Day 5

   Ouarzazate → Drâa valley → Merzouga — arrival at Erg Chebbi dunes

   A transfer day, but a scenic one. Road D956 then N10 follows the Drâa valley, a corridor of green palm groves and pisé ksour slicing through the mineral desert — one of Morocco's most striking landscapes. Possible stops at Agdz (kasbah and local market, 30 min) and Zagora (lunch at a local eatery, 70-90 MAD / €7-9). Total distance Ouarzazate → Merzouga: 370 km, 5h30 to 6h driving.

   Arrive in Merzouga late afternoon. The village is the gateway to the Erg Chebbi dunes, the tallest in Morocco (up to 150 m). From the guesthouse, the dunes loom 500 m away — an immediate, unmediated spectacle. Rest briefly then climb the crest at 5:30-6pm: on foot (25-35 min) or by dromedary (100-150 MAD / €10-15 for a 45-min ride).

   360° view at sunset: orange, red, violet depending on the light. Dinner at the bivouac under the stars — Berber menu (tagine + wood-fired bread + mint tea). Night in a luxury tent or guesthouse room: Auberge Erg Chebbi (from 400 MAD / €40, bivouac option included in some packages) or Dar Azawad (500-700 MAD / €50-70, more refined style).

   Tips

   • · CTM bus Ouarzazate → Merzouga: no reliable direct line — continue by private van from Ouarzazate (800-1,200 MAD / €80-120 for the full day) or hire a car.
   • · Dromedary at sunset: negotiate the price before mounting, not after. 100-150 MAD (€10-15) for 45 min is the going rate — politely refuse prices above 200 MAD.
6. 6

   Day 6

   Sunrise over Erg Chebbi → return to Marrakech

   Wake up at 5:15am: the easiest alarm of the entire trip. Climb to the dune crest before sunrise — 20-25 min walk through cold, silent sand. The light arrives gradually, blood-red then golden, in absolute silence broken only by the wind. This is why you made the detour. Descend slowly, Berber breakfast at the bivouac (msemen flatbread, argan oil, honey, coffee).

   Depart Merzouga around 8:30-9am for the long return to Marrakech. Two options: 1. Road (7-8h, 550 km) via Ouarzazate and Tizi n'Tichka — the same route as the outward journey in reverse, with a lunch stop in Ouarzazate (70-90 MAD / €7-9). Arrive in Marrakech around 5-6pm. 2. Flight Errachidia → Casablanca → Marrakech (Errachidia airport 60 km from Merzouga, Royal Air Maroc or Air Arabia Maroc flights, ~€150-250 depending on availability) — worth it if budget allows and road fatigue is a concern.

   Arrive in Marrakech. Light dinner at the riad or nearby — the day's drive deserves a quiet evening. Night at the same riad as the start of the trip (confirm the room in advance).

   Tips

   • · Private van return Merzouga → Marrakech: negotiate the return journey at the same time as the outward trip (saves 10-15% on the total price). Bring a cool-box with chilled water — it's a long road.
   • · Sunrise: don't use a torch on the dune to avoid spoiling the magic for other travellers. Eyes adjust to desert darkness in 5 minutes.
7. 7

   Day 7

   Marrakech — last medina morning and departure

   Last morning in Marrakech. Slow rise, final coffee on the riad rooftop, view over the medina rooftops. If the flight is in the afternoon or evening, there is time for a full medina morning.

   Last-minute shopping in the souks: ras el-hanout (30-60 MAD / €3-6 per 100g), saffron threads (40-60 MAD / €4-6 per gram), artisan beldi soap (20-40 MAD / €2-4 per ball). Prices in Marrakech's souks are well below airport prices. Walk around Jemaa el-Fna square one last time in the morning, when snake charmers and gnaoua musicians animate the space before the main tourist wave arrives.

   Lunch on a medina terrace: Terrasse des Épices (Souk Chérifia, 360° rooftop view, chicken and almond pastilla 100 MAD / €10) or Café Arabe (Moroccan dish + view over the alleyways, 80-130 MAD / €8-13). Taxi to Ménara airport: 70-80 MAD (€7-8), allow 30-45 min depending on time and traffic. Departure rule: pack bags the night before — the medina alleyways to the waiting taxi often take 10-15 min on foot.

   Tips

   • · Marrakech-Ménara airport: allow 2h before the flight in high season (March-May and October-November) — security and boarding queues can be lengthy.
   • · Currency: convert remaining dirhams before the security checkpoint (exchange office airside of the departures) — dirhams are theoretically non-exportable, though in practice rarely checked.
   Marrakech →

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