14 days in Mauritius: slow immersion and neighbouring islands

Day by day

1. 1

   Day 1

   Arrival at SSR Airport — settling in at Flic-en-Flac

   Land at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam (SSR) International Airport, on the island's south-east coast. First move: collect the rental car at the terminal counter (€25-35/day, left-hand drive — budget 30 minutes to adjust). A taxi from the airport to Flic-en-Flac runs about MUR 1,000-1,200 (€22-26) for a 45-55-min drive; with luggage and a group, the rental car pays for itself on day one.

   Check in at Flic-en-Flac, the ideal base for the west coast: a long white-sand beach sheltered by a lagoon, a wide choice of hotels (€80-200/night depending on category), Creole restaurants and snack bars close by. Tonight, keep dinner simple to let your body adjust to the time difference (+3h in winter, +2h in summer from Paris): Le Coco Beach in Flic-en-Flac (grilled fish, MUR 500-800 per person) or a local snack bar.

   Don't try to sightsee today: the exhaustion of a long-haul flight (11h from Paris) and unfamiliar left-hand driving in evening traffic make a risky combination. Real Mauritius starts tomorrow morning.

   Tips

   • · Airport taxi → Flic-en-Flac: around MUR 1,000-1,200 (€22-26) — agree the price before getting in, meters are rare.
   • · Car rental: €25-35/day at Europcar, Budget or a local operator — book before departure for best availability and rates.
2. 2

   Day 2

   Flic-en-Flac — beaches, lagoon and first sunset

   A recovery day and slow discovery of the west coast. Wake without an alarm, breakfast at the hotel or a local bakery (dholl puri or roti for MUR 60-100). Morning at Flic-en-Flac beach — 8km of white sand sheltered by the lagoon, perfect for coastal snorkelling (fins and masks available for hire, MUR 300-400/day). Coral reefs 100-200m from the beach shelter parrotfish, surgeonfish and starfish.

   Lunch at Zub's in Flic-en-Flac (authentic Mauritian-Creole cuisine, fish curry or swordfish vindaye, MUR 600-900) or La Baguette du Sud for sandwiches and fresh juice. Siesta, then a free afternoon between the lagoon and a hammock. Explore the village on foot: the covered market, fruit sellers (mango, lychee, papaya depending on season) and fishermen returning with the afternoon catch.

   Sunset from the beach at 6-6:30pm: Flic-en-Flac faces due west over the Indian Ocean, offering one of the island's finest sunsets. Dinner at La Bonne Marmite (Indo-Creole cuisine, dhansak and briani, MUR 700-1,000) or back to Le Coco Beach for seafood.

   Tips

   • · Reef-safe sunscreen only in the lagoon: oxybenzone formulas have been banned in Mauritius since 2020 and damage coral.
   • · Snorkelling at Flic-en-Flac: the best spot is 200m north of the main pier — clearer water, reefs less trampled by swimmers near the centre.
3. 3

   Day 3

   South-west: Le Morne kitesurfing and Chamarel coloured earths

   Depart at 8am for Le Morne Brabant, the south-west UNESCO-listed peninsula: a dazzling white beach facing a turquoise lagoon protected by a barrier reef. Le Morne is also the historical symbol of Maroon slave resistance — panels at the foot of the rock tell the story with quiet dignity. The spot is world-famous for kitesurfing and windsurfing: the Morne passage winds blow consistently at 15-25 knots from April to November. Lessons available on site (€50-80 for 2h with an IKO-certified instructor), or just swim in the lagoon if kitesurfing isn't your thing.

   Drive to Chamarel, 20 minutes inland. First stop: the Seven Coloured Earths (entry: approx MUR 300 / €6.50) — volcanic earth dunes in shades of red, violet, green, brown and yellow, a geological feature unique to Mauritius. Arrive before 10am to avoid tourist buses. Second stop right next door: Chamarel Waterfall (MUR 250 / €5.50), a 100m drop into tropical forest, combined ticket with the Earths available.

   Lunch at the panoramic restaurant of the Rhumerie de Chamarel (MUR 950-1,400, Creole fusion cuisine, views over the west coast and Le Morne, complimentary infused rum tasting with the meal). Return to the west coast in late afternoon.

   Tips

   • · Seven Coloured Earths: arrive before 9am — the low morning light intensifies the colours; after 11am, tourist buses make the visit unpleasant.
   • · Kitesurfing at Le Morne: book the session 48h in advance through the on-site schools (ION Club, Kite Lagoon) — morning slots sell out fast in high season.
4. 4

   Day 4

   Black River Gorges — full trek through endemic forest

   A full day in Mauritius's only large wilderness. Depart at 7:30am from Flic-en-Flac for Black River Gorges National Park (free entry), 6,700 hectares of endemic tropical forest sheltering species found nowhere else: Mauritius parakeet, Mauritius magpie-robin, day gecko. Recommended trail: Gorges Viewpoint → 500-foot Waterfall → Black River Peak (6-7h return, +/-480m elevation, moderate-strenuous), the island's highest point (828m) with 360° views on a clear day.

   For less experienced hikers: the Gorges Viewpoint → Chamarel Trail (4-5h, moderate) with plunging views over the Chamarel waterfall and the south-west coast. Either way, bring 2.5L of water, closed shoes and a windbreaker — the forest is cool and trails muddy after rain. No refreshments available inside the park.

   Return to the cars at 2-3pm. Late lunch at Hungry Crocodile in Rivière Noire (Creole burgers and fish & chips, MUR 600-900, terrace by the river). Free afternoon at Flic-en-Flac or start preparing for tomorrow's catamaran day.

   Tips

   • · Black River Gorges: avoid rainy days — trails become slippery and visibility drops to zero. Check the forecast the evening before on the Météo Maurice website.
   • · Black River Peak: wear trail shoes — the final stretch to the summit involves wet rocks. Sandals or trainers are not suitable.
5. 5

   Day 5

   Sacred Grand Bassin and Bois Chéri tea estates

   A day for spiritual and sensory immersion in the island's interior. Depart at 8am for Grand Bassin (Ganga Talao), a volcanic crater lake at 1,800m altitude and the holiest site of Mauritian Hinduism. Pilgrims come here to collect holy water during the Maha Shivaratri festival (January-February), but the site is accessible and peaceful year-round. Around the lake: colourful temples with dozens of statues of Shiva, Lakshmi and Hanuman, incense drifting through the air, temple bells ringing. Smart dress required (shoulders and knees covered), free entry.

   Descend to the Curepipe plateau, then drive to the Bois Chéri Tea Estates (Savanne, south of the island) — Mauritius's only large tea plantation, in operation since 1892. Guided tour of the terraced gardens and processing factory (entry + tasting: approx MUR 350 / €7.50, 1h). Lunch at the Bois Chéri restaurant (panoramic views over the plantations and the south coast, tea menu + Creole specialities, MUR 900-1,300) — book ahead as tables facing Mahébourg Bay are rare.

   Return to Flic-en-Flac in late afternoon via Curepipe: quick stop at Trou aux Cerfs, a dormant volcanic crater in the heart of the town, for a 360° view over the entire island.

   Tips

   • · Grand Bassin: no food or alcohol sold around the lake — bring a light snack and respect the silence in prayer areas.
   • · Bois Chéri: book lunch 48h in advance — the restaurant is popular with local tour operators and the best tables (sea view) go quickly.
6. 6

   Day 6

   Île aux Bénitiers — catamaran, dolphins and turquoise lagoon

   A full day at sea — one of the finest of the entire trip. Depart from La Preneuse or Black River harbour (west coast) at 8:30am for a full-day catamaran excursion to Île aux Bénitiers, a private islet in the lagoon off Le Morne Brabant. The standard programme covers: spinner dolphin watching in Tamarin Bay (1h to 1h30, dolphins frequent the area every morning), snorkelling on the coral reef off the islet (crystal-clear water, 10-15m depth), BBQ lunch on board or on the islet (lobster, grilled meats, hearts of palm salad), and a lazy afternoon on the Île aux Bénitiers beach.

   Cost of such an excursion: €80-120 per person depending on the operator and boat standard. Recommended operators: Christophe Catamaran, My Way Cruises or Catamarans Croisières Mauritius. Book at least 3-4 days in advance in high season. Return to port at 4-5pm.

   Light dinner tonight — after a full day at sea and sun, nothing heavy is needed. The Hungry Crocodile or a takeaway chicken curry from a Flic-en-Flac snack bar (MUR 200-350) is more than enough.

   Tips

   • · Catamaran to Île aux Bénitiers: choose an operator capping at 12-16 passengers — large boats of 30+ people make dolphin approach invasive and less ethical.
   • · Bring seasickness tablets if prone: the Morne lagoon can have ocean swells in windy season (May-September).
7. 7

   Day 7

   Tamarin surfing and Casela Nature Park

   A gentler day, balancing nature and measured adventure, before the transfer to the south-east coast tomorrow. Morning in Tamarin: if you surf, the Tamarin Bay beach break offers good left and right-hand waves from May to October, beginner-to-intermediate level (board hire: MUR 500-700/day, group lessons: MUR 1,000-1,500/2h with local schools). Otherwise, snorkelling or kayaking in the bay.

   Afternoon at Casela Nature Park, 15 minutes from Tamarin (entry: MUR 700-900 adult / ~€15-19). The park houses lions, cheetahs, zebras, giraffes, rhinoceroses and hundreds of bird species in a semi-wild setting. Activities on offer: cheetah interaction (supervised, 30-40 min, additional MUR 2,500-3,500), zip-line and via ferrata for the sporty, camel rides. The park takes 2-4h depending on chosen activities.

   Farewell dinner on the west coast: La Plage in Tamarin (relaxed beach cuisine, grilled fish, bay views, MUR 800-1,200) or the Tamarin artisan market restaurant (Mauritian curry, seafood). Pack bags and prepare for tomorrow's transfer to the south-east coast.

   Tips

   • · Casela Nature Park: book the cheetah interaction 24-48h in advance — sessions are capped at 6 people and fill up fast.
   • · Surfing at Tamarin: the best swell runs from May to October, with south-east winds. Out of season the bay is flat — opt for kayaking or SUP instead.
8. 8

   Day 8

   Transfer to the south-east coast — Blue Bay and Île aux Aigrettes

   Morning: return the car to the Flic-en-Flac agency or keep it if your rental allows, and cross the island to Blue Bay on the south-east coast (1h10-1h30 drive via the B9 and southern coastal road). Blue Bay is recognised as one of the island's finest beaches and its lagoon is Ramsar-listed (internationally important wetland): shallow turquoise water, compact white sand, protected coral reefs. Check in at a hotel or guesthouse in Blue Bay or Mahébourg (2km further north, livelier and cheaper).

   Afternoon: boat trip to Île aux Aigrettes, a 27-hectare coral islet managed by the Mauritius Wildlife Foundation (MWF). This restored nature reserve shelters the species Mauritius harboured before human arrival: Aldabra giant tortoises, Mauritius pink pigeons (making a spectacular recovery), gecko lizards and endemic coastal vegetation. Guided tour compulsory (1h30, entry + guide: MUR 850 / ~€18, boat transfer from Mahébourg included). Book in advance on the MWF website.

   Dinner in Mahébourg: the waterfront of the colonial town offers several options — Le Vieux Grenier (smoked fish curry and octopus salad, MUR 700-1,000) is a reliable choice.

   Tips

   • · Île aux Aigrettes: book at least 5 days in advance — groups are capped at 12 and the MWF makes no exceptions for non-members.
   • · Blue Bay: avoid unsupervised snorkelling in roped-off conservation zones — access to the most sensitive coral structures is regulated by the Blue Bay Marine Park.
9. 9

   Day 9

   Mahébourg — Monday market, museum and colonial history

   A day for culture and history in the town with Mauritius's richest colonial past. If your Day 9 falls on a Monday, do not miss the Mahébourg Market — the most authentic and lively on the island, with stalls selling Creole vegetables (taro, drumstick leaves), spices, smoked fish, clothing and local crafts. A lively popular atmosphere mixing Indo-Mauritian, Creole and Chinese cultures. Shopping budget: MUR 300-600 for spices, teas and preserves to take home.

   Visit the National History Museum of Mahébourg (an 18th-century stone house, free entry, open Monday to Saturday). The museum traces the Battle of Grand Port (1810), the only French naval victory over the British inscribed on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, with a fine collection of cannons, old maps and documents on the Dutch, French and British eras.

   Afternoon: stroll along the Mahébourg waterfront, relax at Blue Bay or take a boat trip to the islets in the southern lagoon (Île aux Deux Cocos, accessible via local excursions, ~MUR 1,500-2,000 per person). Dinner at Chez Patrick in Mahébourg (octopus curry, salted fish rougaille, family atmosphere, MUR 600-900).

   Tips

   • · Mahébourg Museum: allow at least 1h30 — the collections are richer than expected and the explanations of the Battle of Grand Port are worth reading in full.
   • · Mahébourg Market: Monday mornings only (approx 6am-12pm) — on other days a reduced market operates on Rue du Marché but without the Monday buzz.
10. 10

    Day 10

    Domestic flight to Rodrigues — arrival and first steps

    The big change of scene in this trip. From Plaisance Airport (SSR), take the Air Mauritius domestic flight (or sometimes Air Austral) to Sir Gaëtan Duval Airport on Rodrigues (duration: approximately 1h20, 1-2 departures daily depending on season). Fares: €150-300 return depending on booking date — book at least 6-8 weeks in advance in high season (May-November), as seats are limited on the small ATR-72s with around sixty seats.

    Rodrigues: the other Mauritius. 108 km² of red hills, an intact lagoon, ochre dirt tracks and Creole villages unchanged for thirty years. No mass tourism, no all-inclusive resort, no casino. The population of 42,000 lives mainly from fishing, livestock and crafts. Rodriguan Creole cuisine is reputed to be spicier and more authentic than on Mauritius itself.

    Check in at a guesthouse or small hotel in Port Mathurin (the capital, 8,000 inhabitants) or one of the bays (Anse Ally, Mourouk, Anse Tamarin). Accommodation budget: €50-120/night at a quality guesthouse. Hire a quad or local motorbike to explore the island tomorrow (MUR 600-900 / €13-19 per day). Dinner at Resto Chez Ginette in Port Mathurin (dried octopus curry, vegetable achards, MUR 500-700) — the island's unmissable address.

    Tips

    • · Flight Mauritius → Rodrigues: book as soon as your trip is confirmed — ATR-72s seat 60-70 and morning departure slots (9-10am) go first.
    • · Cash on Rodrigues: ATMs are rare and sometimes out of service — bring enough Mauritian rupees in cash from Mauritius (MUR is the common currency).
11. 11

    Day 11

    Rodrigues — Anse Ally, Île aux Cocos and Creole cuisine

    A full exploration day on Rodrigues by quad or motorbike. Early departure for Anse Ally, one of the island's finest beaches (south-east coast), accessible by 25-min red dirt track from Port Mathurin — a flat lagoon of unreal turquoise, deserted on weekdays, water clear to 1-2m depth. Exceptional snorkelling on the south lagoon reefs, among the best-preserved in the entire western Indian Ocean.

    Half-day on Île aux Cocos (accessible only by boat from Baie Mourouk jetty, ~30-min crossing, organised excursion: MUR 1,200-1,800 per person) — an integral nature reserve and nesting habitat for sooty terns and red-tailed tropicbirds. The islet is tiny (a few hectares), surrounded by crystal-clear lagoon; snorkelling here is among the region's finest. Guided by an agent of the Rodrigues Environment Commission.

    Return to Port Mathurin in early afternoon. Free time to explore the Port Mathurin artisan market (vacoas basketry, Rodriguan honey, dried chillies, tamarind jam) and the waterfront. Dinner at Piment Rouge in Port Mathurin (grilled seafood, garlic octopus, spicy Rodriguan Creole cuisine, MUR 700-1,000) or at a home cook recommended by your guesthouse — an experience not to miss.

    Tips

    • · Île aux Cocos: the excursion only runs if weather permits — check the evening before with your guesthouse or operator; strong winds in season (May-October) can cancel the crossing.
    • · Quad tracks on Rodrigues: signage is almost non-existent — download the Rodrigues map on Maps.me in offline mode before leaving Port Mathurin each morning.
12. 12

    Day 12

    Return to Mauritius — settling on the east coast at Belle Mare

    Return flight Rodrigues → Mauritius in the morning (same operator, same frequencies — confirm the evening before). Land at SSR, pick up a rental car (if you didn't keep one, arrange a new booking in advance — airport agencies charge the same rates as city agencies). Drive to the east coast: Belle Mare or Trou d'Eau Douce (1h from SSR via the M1 North motorway then the coastal road).

    Belle Mare: 9km of beach, a deeper and windier lagoon than the west (south-east trade winds), intensely blue-green water. East coast hotels are among the island's finest in the €150-400/night bracket (Four Seasons, LUX, Constance) but good boutique options exist at €80-140/night. A decelerating afternoon on the beach after the pace of Rodrigues.

    Dinner at Ti Bistro in Trou d'Eau Douce (relaxed Franco-Creole cuisine, grilled lobster in season, MUR 900-1,500) or at La Capitainerie du Coin de Mire on the coastal road (fishing harbour atmosphere, catch of the day, MUR 700-1,100). Final stretch: two days of beach and islets before heading home.

    Tips

    • · Check the return flight Rodrigues → Mauritius the evening before: schedules can shift by 1-2h due to weather at Sir Gaëtan Duval Airport (a windy plateau).
    • · East coast in June-August: trade winds blow strongly (20-30 km/h) — prefer hotels with a sheltered pool, as swell can make some beach sections unsuitable for swimming.
13. 13

    Day 13

    Île aux Cerfs and Trou d'Eau Douce

    Second-to-last day: make the most of the east coast's finest offering. Early departure from Belle Mare to Trou d'Eau Douce, the fishing village that gives access to Île aux Cerfs. Boats from the main jetty (MUR 600-800 / €13-17 return per person, departures every 20-30 minutes from 8am). The islet is Mauritius's most visited: a milky-blue lagoon, fine white sand, shallow water from 0.5 to 3m depth, ideal for swimming, snorkelling and kayaking.

    On weekdays the island is manageable; on weekends it welcomes thousands of Mauritians and hundreds of tourists. Tip for space: walk or kayak along the south-east shore of the islet (hire on site, MUR 400-600/hour) to find near-deserted beaches away from the main landing area. Bring a packed lunch from Trou d'Eau Douce — the island's restaurants charge excessive prices (MUR 1,200-2,000 for ordinary meals).

    Return to Trou d'Eau Douce around 3pm. The charming village rewards a last stroll: the waterfront, the colourful fishing boats, the small Catholic church and the lanes. Dinner at Villa Mon Désir in Trou d'Eau Douce (refined Creole cuisine, octopus confit, MUR 1,000-1,500, reservation recommended) for a quality final meal before heading home.

    Tips

    • · Île aux Cerfs on a Monday or Tuesday: ideal day — weekend tourist groups have left and Mauritians are at work. The main beach is half empty.
    • · Kayaking around Île aux Cerfs: allow 1h30 for the full circuit of the islet at a leisurely pace — bring water, the glare on the lagoon is intense.
14. 14

    Day 14

    Pamplemousses Garden → Trou aux Biches → SSR Airport

    Last Mauritian morning — unhurried, sensory and calm. Drive from Belle Mare north-west via Port-Louis (approx 1h30). First stop: the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden at Pamplemousses, one of the oldest botanical gardens in the southern hemisphere (founded in 1735). Free entry. Garden highlights: the giant Victoria amazonica water lilies in the ponds (admire before 10am as they close in midday heat), talipot palms, nutmeg trees, cinnamon trees and century-old jackfruit trees. Allow 1h to 1h30 for a quiet morning walk — shade is welcome and tour buses arrive after 10am.

    Leave Pamplemousses at 10-10:30am. If your flight is late afternoon (frequent departures 6-11pm), detour to Trou aux Biches (15 min from Pamplemousses): considered by many the finest beach in the north, with clear water, white sand and a flat, safe lagoon. Final swim, final early sunset. If the flight is mid-afternoon, head straight to SSR from Pamplemousses.

    Return the car at the airport (BP and Total stations in the perimeter) — fill the tank before returning it. Check-in recommended 2h30 before departure. Last souvenirs at Pamplemousses market (spices, vanilla, cinnamon) or SSR duty-free.

    Tips

    • · Pamplemousses Garden: arrive before 9am for the Victoria amazonica lilies — they close in mid-morning heat. Ideal visit: 8am to 9:30am.
    • · Car return: fill up at the BP station 2km from the airport (fuel ~MUR 65/L) to avoid the inflated rate charged by the rental company for an empty tank.

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