Amman and the North

Amman and the North form the natural gateway to Jordan and concentrate a major share of the country's cultural and religious heritage. The region revolves around the capital Amman (4.5 million inhabitants in its metropolitan area, nearly half of Jordan's population), built on seven hills (jebels) like Rome — hence its nickname of 'White Rome'. Amman is a surprising city, both modern and ancient: on the Citadel (Jebel Al-Qala'a) stand the Roman Temple of Hercules (2nd century), the Umayyad palace (8th century) and a Byzantine basilica, while below unfolds the Roman Theatre (2nd century, 6,000 seats, still used for summer concerts).

50 km north of Amman, Jerash (ancient Gerasa) is arguably the best-preserved Roman city in the Middle East — often called the 'Pompeii of the East'. Founded by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC, it reached its peak under the Roman Empire (1st-3rd century) before being gradually abandoned after the 8th-century earthquakes. The 200-hectare site offers exceptional preservation: Hadrian's Arch (erected in 129 for the emperor's visit), the hippodrome (250 m long, 15,000 seats, still used for chariot race reenactments), the oval forum (unique square, surrounded by 56 Ionic columns), the cardo maximus (central avenue of 800 m lined with 500 columns), the Temple of Artemis (protector goddess of the city) and two remarkable theatres. A full day is needed to cover everything.

30 km southwest of Amman, Madaba (60,000 inhabitants, city with strong Christian minority) is Jordan's capital of Byzantine mosaics. Saint George's Basilica houses the famous mosaic map of the Holy Land (6th century), the oldest known cartographic representation of Jerusalem and Palestine — 2 million tesserae still visible, invaluable document for biblical topography. The town has about twenty other churches with remarkable mosaics. 10 km from Madaba, Mount Nebo (817 m) is, according to biblical tradition (Deuteronomy 34), the place where Moses saw the Promised Land before dying without being able to enter it. The Franciscan sanctuary (renovated in 2016) offers a spectacular view of the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea and, on clear days, as far as Jerusalem and Bethlehem.

Further north, 75 km from Amman in the verdant hills of Jebel Ajloun, the Ajloun Fortress (Qal'at Ar-Rabad) is one of the finest examples of Arab-Muslim military architecture. Built in 1184 by a general of Saladin to counter the Crusaders settled at Belvoir (across the Jordan Valley), it dominates the region and offers, on clear days, views as far as Israeli Galilee. The Ajloun hills, covered with oaks, pines and olive trees, contrast surprisingly with the desert image usually associated with Jordan — this is where the Ajloun Forest Reserve is located, managed by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature, with hiking trails and ecolodges.