Things to do — Cairo

Cairo concentrates a heritage of exceptional density that organises around four main poles.

The medieval Islamic pole is one of the most beautiful ensembles of Muslim architecture in the world. The Citadel of Saladin (12th century) dominates the city from the Mokattam Hills and houses the spectacular Muhammad Ali Mosque (1848) with its two Ottoman minarets. Descend to the Sultan Hassan Mosque (1356) and the Al-Rifa'i Mosque (where Iran's last Shah is buried), then head to Mu'izz Street, the north-south axis of the Fatimid city lined with palaces, sabils and madrasas. The Al-Azhar Mosque (970), one of the oldest still-operating universities in the world, marks the spiritual heart. Right next door, the Khan el-Khalili — a souk founded in 1382 — unfolds its alleys of spices, copper, jewellery and textiles. Allow a full day for this Islamic pole.

The pharaonic pole splits between Giza (pyramids and the new Grand Egyptian Museum, see dedicated guide) and the Egyptian Museum on Tahrir Square, which still holds royal mummies, colossal statues and tens of thousands of objects in its uniquely old-fashioned museum atmosphere. For enthusiasts, add a half-day excursion to Saqqara (Djoser's Step Pyramid, 3rd dynasty) and Memphis (ancient capital of unified Egypt), 30 km south of Cairo.

The Coptic pole concentrates in the Misr al-Qadima quarter, south of the city: the Hanging Church (al-Mu'allaqa) built in the 3rd-4th century on the walls of a Roman fortress, the Church of Saint Sergius (where the Holy Family is said to have found refuge), the Ben Ezra Synagogue (which sheltered the famous Cairo Geniza) and the Coptic Museum, one of the richest in its field worldwide. Plan a half-day.

Finally, modern Cairo comes alive in the evening: a felucca cruise on the Nile at sunset (€15-20 per hour), dinner on a Zamalek or Garden City terrace, a Sufi music performance at Wikala al-Ghuri (Wednesdays and Saturdays), and rose tea at one of the historic cafés (El Fishawy at Khan el-Khalili, open 24 hours since 1773).