Things to do — Istanbul

Istanbul offers an accumulation of first-rank sights without equal in any other single city in the world. Here are the must-sees structured by zone.

Historic peninsula (Sultanahmet) — the absolute priority: Hagia Sophia (537 AD, free for prayer hall + €25 for museum gallery), the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii, 1616, free, partial restoration), Topkapi Palace (1465-1856, €52 with harem), the Basilica Cistern Yerebatan (532, €30), the Hippodrome and its obelisks (free), the Istanbul Archaeological Museum (Alexandrian sarcophagi, Kadesh Treaty tablet, 700 TRY).

Eminönü and bazaars: the Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı, 1461 — 4,000 shops, mandatory bargaining), the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı, 1660 — spices, Turkish delight, baklava), the Süleymaniye Mosque (Sinan, 1557 — panoramic view from the gardens). Lunch on a balık ekmek (grilled fish sandwich) near Galata Bridge.

Bosphorus cruise — unmissable: public Şehir Hatları (Eminönü-Anadolu Kavağı, 2h30 or full day, €4-8) or private sunset yacht (€30-80). View of palaces (Dolmabahçe, Çırağan, Beylerbeyi), fortresses (Rumeli Hisarı) and polychrome wooden yalı.

Galata and Beyoğlu: Galata Tower (14th c. Genoese, panoramic view, €30, frequent queues), pedestrian İstiklal avenue (1.4 km, old red tram, historic cafés Markiz and Lebon), Taksim Square, Pera Museum (orientalist paintings). Evening mezze + raki in a traditional meyhane (Refik in Beyoğlu, Asmalı Cavit).

Ottoman hammam: Çemberlitaş Hamamı (1584, Sinan) or Cağaloğlu Hamamı (1741). Kese + soap + massage package €50-90, 1h30-2h. Book 24-48h ahead.

Excursions: Princes' Islands (ferry Kabataş, 1h15 to Büyükada, €5, pine forest + carriages + Saint George Monastery), Bursa former Ottoman capital (fast ferry from Yenikapı, 2h + 30 min bus, 14th c. green mosques).