Things to do — Kandy

The absolute must-see in Kandy is the Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa), home to the most precious relic of the Buddhist world. The tooth itself is never shown — it rests in seven nested caskets in the inner sanctum — but the faithful file in their thousands every day to venerate the outer casket. Pooja (ceremonies) take place three times a day at 5:30 am, 9:30 am and 6:30 pm. The evening one, accompanied by hewisi drums and spiral trumpets, is the most striking: the inner casket opens for an hour, the faithful approach in separate lines (men/women), and the monks chant ancient sutras. Strict dress code: shoulders and knees covered, shoes removed at the entrance (locker 50 LKR). Allow 1h30 for the visit with pooja.

The Peradeniya Botanical Garden (6 km west of Kandy, 30 min by tuk-tuk) is one of Sri Lanka's most pleasant surprises. Founded in 1821 by the British, it covers 60 hectares in a bend of the Mahaweli river. Highlights: the royal palm avenue planted in 1905, the circular coconut lawn regularly used in Indian film shoots, the orchid collection (300 species), the spice garden (cinnamon, pepper, vanilla, cardamom), and the century-old giant banyan that covers 1,600 m² with its aerial roots. Entry costs 1,500 LKR (£4), allow 2h30 to 3 hours, ideally in the morning before the heat.

The Audience Hall museum (Magul Maduwa), right beside the Temple of the Tooth, retraces the history of the Kandyan monarchy and the 1815 signing of the Kandy Convention that ended the independent kingdom. Small but emotionally rich, especially for Sri Lankan visitors.

Late afternoon, the Kandyan dance show (Kandy Lake Club, 5:30 pm every evening, 1,500 LKR) presents in 1 hour the traditional dances, hewisi drums and fire walkers. Touristy but well done, and the finale (walking on glowing coals) is spectacular.

For hikers, the Hanthana trail (2-3 hours round trip) offers a panoramic view of Kandy and the lake. Start from Hanthana village, accessible by tuk-tuk from the centre (£1). Ideal at dawn or late afternoon. Another option, the Bahirawakanda Vihara Buddha Statue: a 27-metre-high white Buddha statue on a hilltop overlooking the city, accessible on foot (45 min) or by tuk-tuk.

Two excursions warrant half a day. The Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage (40 km from Kandy, 1 hour by road) has taken in orphaned or injured elephants since 1975. The highlight is the daily bath in the river (10am-12pm and 2-4pm) — around fifty elephants cross the main road to reach the water. Criticised by some animal welfare groups for breeding conditions, the site remains one of the most visited in the country. A more ethical alternative: Elephant Transit Home at Udawalawe (200 km south).