An ideal day in Colombo starts early at Galle Face Green, the great seafront esplanade laid out by the British in 1859. Mornings bring joggers and yoga practitioners; evenings draw all of Colombo for sunset over the Indian Ocean, as street vendors prepare isso wade and kottu roti on their little carts.
A short walk from Galle Face lies Fort, the colonial historic centre. The Old Dutch Hospital, a seventeenth-century Dutch building, has been beautifully restored and now houses upmarket restaurants including the famous Ministry of Crab. The Clock Tower (1857) marks the entrance to the quarter, alongside Colombo lighthouse and the statue of Lord Nelson.
Pettah, twenty minutes' walk north, is the commercial soul of the city. Each lane has its speciality: Sea Street for gold and jewellery, Gabo's Lane for spices, Main Street for textiles, Front Street for electronics. The Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque (1908), built in red-and-white brick, is one of the most photogenic buildings in Colombo. The Manning Market is the most authentic fruit and vegetable market in town (dawn opening).
The Gangaramaya Temple, by Beira Lake, is one of the city's most visited Buddhist sites. Built in the nineteenth century, it blends Sinhalese, Thai, Indian and Chinese architectural styles in a single complex. Next to it, the Seema Malaka Temple sits on the lake itself, the work of Geoffrey Bawa — Sri Lanka's greatest twentieth-century architect, whose house-museum (Number 11) on Bagatalle Road also rewards a visit.
The National Museum of Sri Lanka (Cinnamon Gardens) houses the island's finest art and history collection: the throne of the last king of Kandy, sacred manuscripts, fifth-century Buddhist statues. Allow 90 minutes. Nearby, Viharamahadevi Park (the local Hyde Park) is a popular green space for weekend families.
Evenings head to Cinnamon Gardens (Colombo 7) for the food scene: Nuga Gama for authentic Sinhalese cuisine, Upali's for evening hoppers, The Mango Tree for North Indian cuisine, and of course the legendary Ministry of Crab for giant lagoon crabs. Reservation essential several days ahead.
Read also
- Sri Lanka — Full country guide: entry rules, budget, when to visit, itineraries.
- Sigiriya, the Lion Rock — Fifth-century UNESCO rock fortress, four hours from Colombo by road.
- Kandy, last royal capital — Temple of the Tooth and sacred lake at the heart of the mountains.
- Galle, the Dutch Fort — UNESCO walled town and southern capital, two hours by train from Colombo.