Things to do — The Visayas

The Visayas build their appeal island by island, with each stop bringing its own distinctive experiences.

Boracay (Panay) is the undisputed star. White Beach, regularly ranked among the world's most beautiful beaches, stretches 4 kilometers of powder-white sand in front of a spectacular sunset. By day the activities are non-stop: snorkeling on Crocodile Island's reef, kitesurfing on Bulabog Beach — one of Asia's best arenas for the sport — sunset paraw sailing, and excursions to the quieter Puka Shell Beach in the north. By night the beachfront comes alive with seafood restaurants, bars and informal fireworks displays. Boracay is also accessible from Caticlan (Panay) in 15 minutes by ferry — a slick logistical setup that explains much of its popularity.

Bohol offers a completely different register. The Chocolate Hills — 1,268 cone-shaped hills with perfectly symmetrical curves that turn brown in the dry season — are the most photographed emblem of the Philippines. A short drive away, in the Bilar forest, the tarsiers (Carlito syrichta) — nocturnal, wide-eyed primates — observe visitors from their branches in a responsibly managed sanctuary. The Loboc River is descended on flat-bottomed buffet barges, between villages and waterfalls. The Panglao peninsula, 45 minutes from Tagbilaran, concentrates the island's best beaches (Alona Beach) and renowned dive sites: Balicasag Island and its blacktip reef sharks, Doljo Beach, Hinagdanan Cave with its underground lagoon.

Cebu, the Visayan hub, deserves at least one day of exploration: the Basilica Minore del Santo Niño (the oldest church in the Philippines, founded in 1565), Fort San Pedro, the Carbon Market. Beyond the city, Moalboal is famous for its sardine ball pulsing only a few meters off the beach, and Oslob offers a (controversial) swim with whale sharks.

Siquijor and the smaller islands round out the picture, where diving, the discovery of local cultures and the hikes to the Cambugahay waterfalls create a varied menu for travelers looking beyond the headline destinations. The Camotes group, just three hours from Cebu, remains one of the regional secrets for travelers who want an empty beach to themselves.