Things to do — Pacific coast

In Lima (2-3 days), absolute priority to gastronomy. Book 1-2 months ahead your top restaurants: Central (Virgilio Martínez, world #1 2023, Mater menu 17 dishes by altitudes), Maido (nikkei cuisine top 10), Kjolle (Pía León), Astrid y Gastón (Gastón Acurio). For ceviche: La Mar (lunch only), El Mercado, Pescados Capitales. For chifa: Madam Tusan. For anticuchos: Grimanesa Vargas. Pisco sour cocktail tour: Carnaval (world's top 50 bars), Lady Bee, Ayahuasca (Barranco, in a colonial house).

Must-see visits: UNESCO historic centre (Plaza Mayor, 1535 cathedral with Pizarro tomb, presidential palace, San Francisco monastery with 1546 catacombs and ancient library, 1535 Casa de Aliaga oldest inhabited house in the Americas). Larco Museum (pre-Columbian art collection among the world's finest, 45,000 pieces, gardens, excellent café-restaurant) — absolute must-see. Huaca Pucllana (pre-Inca pyramid in Miraflores heart, gourmet restaurant at site foot). Barranco quarter: Puente de los Suspiros (colorful bridge), Bajada de Baños, MATE (Mario Testino museum), art galleries, restaurants. Parque del Amor at Miraflores (lovers park on the cliff, Víctor Delfín statues, Pacific views).

Optional excursions: Pachacamac (pre-Inca archaeological site 30 km south, €40-60/person half day), Caral (oldest city in the Americas, 3,000 BC, 200 km north, full day €80-120), Circuito Magico del Agua (illuminated fountain park, PEN 8-10).

At Paracas (1-2 days), the Ballestas Islands (2h boat excursion departing El Chaco port, 8am or 10am, PEN 60-90, sea lions, penguins, pelicans, sometimes dolphins), Paracas National Reserve (4h tour by bus + walk in protected desert, Red Beach, Yumaque Beach, collapsed Catedral, €35-50/person with guide), Atenas or La Mina beaches (spectacular deserted beaches).

At Huacachina (1 night), must-do: buggy + sandboarding in the dunes (late afternoon outing 4-6pm, PEN 50-70, board loaned, dune descent, sunset from the top — iconic Peruvian experience). Ica pisco wineries (Tacama, Tabernero, Vista Alegre, El Catador — visit + tasting PEN 15-25 per winery, taxi or tour €30-50).

At Nazca (1 night), absolute must-do: Cessna flight over the Nazca Lines (30-45 min, USD 80-130 + USD 10 airport taxes, to confirm the day before depending on weather). Companies: AeroNasca, AeroParacas, Movil Air. Other options: Maria Reiche museum (dedicated to the German archaeologist who devoted her life to studying the lines, PEN 10), Cantalloc aqueducts (pre-Inca hydraulic network 4 km from Nazca, PEN 8), Chauchilla cemetery (pre-Inca necropolis with mummies in open desert, PEN 8, 30 min taxi access).