Wellington south

The Wellington region covers the southern third of the North Island — from the capital Wellington (215,000 inhabitants, 415,000 in the metro area) through the Wairarapa region and its vineyards, to Cape Palliser, the southernmost point of the North Island. It's a compact region but with exceptional cultural density, deserving a minimum of 2-3 days in any New Zealand itinerary.

Wellington is New Zealand's political capital (Parliament, Beehive, Supreme Court, ministries) but above all the country's cultural and creative capital. Built amphitheatre-like around its deep harbour (Wellington Harbour), between steep hills and blue water, it has a unique charm sometimes reminiscent of San Francisco — hilly neighbourhoods, the emblematic cable car-funicular (Wellington Cable Car), colourful Victorian houses (especially in Mount Victoria and Thorndon), bohemian and progressive atmosphere. The city is also known for its powerful winds — Cook Strait channels the Roaring Forties winds through the bay, making Wellington statistically the windiest capital in the world (average wind speed: 27 km/h, frequent gusts 50-80 km/h).

The cultural scene is Wellington's soul. The Te Papa Museum (Te Papa Tongarewa, 'our place', opened 1998) is one of the world's best national museums — 6 free levels, with an entire wing devoted to Māori history (giant waka war canoe, contemporary sculpted marae, sacred taonga), natural history galleries (4.2 m colossal squid), world-class temporary exhibitions, panoramic harbour views. Plan a minimum of 3-4 hours, ideally a full day. The City Gallery Wellington, the Adam Art Gallery (Victoria University) and the New Zealand Portrait Gallery complete the offering. Wellington is also the capital of New Zealand cinema — Peter Jackson and virtually the entire country's film industry is based in Miramar (30 min from centre), home of Weta Workshop (special effects for Lord of the Rings, Hobbit, Avatar, Spielberg's Tintin) and Park Road Post (sound post-production). Weta Workshop guided tours possible (NZD 60/person).

Neighbourhood life concentrates around Cuba Street — emblematic pedestrian street with independent cafes, art galleries, vintage shops, thrift stores and bohemian atmosphere (the kitsch Bucket Fountain is a local meeting point). Courtenay Place is the nightlife and restaurant epicentre. The harbour and waterfront (from Te Papa to the Stadium) are perfect for strolling, with Oriental Bay and its urban beach. Wellington is considered one of the world's best coffee cities — the flat white (extended espresso with micro-foam milk, of New Zealand origin according to local legend) is served everywhere, and iconic cafes (Customs, Flight Coffee, Memphis Belle, Mojo) are institutions.

The Wairarapa region (1h30 east of Wellington via the scenic Rimutaka Hill route or by Wellington-Masterton train) is the region's other major asset: Martinborough is one of New Zealand's great wine regions (recognised Pinot Noir, over 20 cellars open to the public, intimate and compact atmosphere — the town visits by bicycle). Further south, Cape Palliser (the southernmost point of the North Island, 2h30 from Wellington) offers spectacular coastal landscapes: a permanent seal colony (largest fur seal colony on the North Island, observable at 10 m distance), a red and white lighthouse from 1897 perched on the cliff (252 steps to climb for the view), wild black-pebble beaches.

The region is also the gateway to the South Island: the Interislander ferry (and its competitor Bluebridge) departs daily from Wellington to Picton (3h30 crossing), through Cook Strait and the Marlborough Sounds — one of the world's most beautiful sea crossings, not to be missed under any circumstances.