Things to do — Jerash

A visit to Jerash organises naturally along the cardo maximus, the main north-south street crossing the ancient city over 1.2 kilometres. The classic itinerary runs from the south entrance (Hadrian's Arch) to the north end (North theatre) in 4 to 5 hours.

Start with Hadrian's Arch, raised in 129-130 AD on the occasion of the emperor's visit to Gerasa. It is the best-preserved monumental arch in the East, restored in the 2000s. Continue to the hippodrome (245 m long, 50 m wide, originally seating 15,000 spectators, partially reconstructed) where the RACE re-enactments take place twice a day. Pass the South Gate (remains of the Byzantine fortifications), and you arrive on the Oval Forum — the highlight. This 90-metre-long elliptical plaza, surrounded by 56 Ionic columns still standing and paved with original limestone slabs, is unique in the entire Roman Empire (forums were always rectangular elsewhere). It probably served as a religious marketplace between the Temple of Zeus, whose columns you see to the west, and the commercial town.

Then climb to the Temple of Zeus (2nd century, 14-metre-high Corinthian columns still visible), then to the South Roman theatre (3,000 seats, perfect acoustics — test by whispering from the orchestra, you can be heard from the last row). Descend to the cardo maximus and walk north along the 800 columns still standing. A third of the way along, on the right, you'll find the nymphaeum (large monumental fountain from the 2nd century, dedicated to the nymphs). Further along, the Temple of Artemis — the city's tutelary deity — dominates the site with its 12 Corinthian columns 13 metres high still standing out of the original 32. Finish with the North theatre (1,000 seats, more intimate than the South theatre, sometimes used for the festival) and the Byzantine cathedral (4th-century remains).

The small archaeological museum near the Oval Forum (free entry) presents a few remarkable pieces — sarcophagi, Byzantine mosaics, statues — and warrants 30 minutes at the end of the visit. If you have the energy, climb the Byzantine terraces to the north-east of the site for a comprehensive view of the ancient city at sunset — one of the most spectacular viewpoints in Jordan.