Itineraries — Kansai

Kansai organises itself around a natural triangle: Kyoto to the northeast for cultural depth, Osaka to the west for gastronomy and urban energy, Nara to the south for spiritual and natural character. This triangle is completed by two major excursion anchors: Himeji (Japan's most beautiful castle, 45 min from Osaka) and Mount Koya (the heartland of Japanese esoteric Buddhism, 1h30 away). Over a seven-to-ten-day stay, all these points can be linked by train without retracing the same route.

For a short stay (4-5 days), focus on Kyoto and one side trip to Nara or Osaka. Three days in Kyoto cover the three foundational circuits: the east (Gion, Ninenzaka, Kiyomizudera), the northwest (Arashiyama, the bamboo grove, Tenryu-ji, Sagano) and the centre (Nijo Castle, Kinkaku-ji, Ryoan-ji). On the fourth day, Nara is 45 minutes from Kyoto JR and delivers a perfect day among the deer of the park, Todai-ji and the stone lantern alleys of Kasuga Taisha.

Over a week (7 days), the classic itinerary allocates three to four days to Kyoto, a day in Nara, a day in Osaka (Dotonbori, castle) and a day for either Himeji or Mount Koya. This loop covers the best of Kansai without feeling hurried — an absolute key to appreciating Kyoto, which rewards slow travellers and punishes the rushed.

With 10 to 14 days, the region opens fully. Add a night on Mount Koya (shukubo, Okunoin at dawn), a day in Kobe (beef, waterfront, Nankinmachi Chinatown), a trip to Arima Onsen (hot springs 30 min from Kobe) and, for contemporary art lovers, a day on Naoshima island (Tadao Ando museums) via ferry from Osaka. For a journey built around the arts and spirituality, Zen meditation (zazen) retreats at Kyoto temples and Koyasan should be booked well in advance.