Things to do — Rovinj

Rovinj reveals itself in three poles: the Old Town on the peninsula, the waterfront and the islands, and inland Istria (hilltop villages, truffles, vineyards).

The Old Town (peninsula). Enter through the Balbi Arch (1679, Baroque Venetian) or via the port. The alleys spiral up to the top of the promontory. The main street Grisia is the backbone, lined with art galleries (Rovinj has hosted an active art scene since the 1960s). It leads to St Euphemia's Basilica (Sveta Eufemija, 18th century, Baroque), crowning the town. The 57-metre bell tower — a smaller copy of St Mark's campanile in Venice — can be climbed (€5) for an exceptional panoramic view over the sea, the archipelago and the hinterland. Inside, the sarcophagus of St Euphemia (martyred at Chalcedon in 304, the sarcophagus said to have floated to Rovinj in 800) and the rotating copper weathervane atop the tower (4 metres, St Euphemia turning with the wind — the town emblem).

In the alleys, look out for the scalinate — little stone steps before each front door, a typical Venetian heritage. The Court Square (Trg Maršala Tita) is the former main square, lined by the Pretorian Palace (17th century, current town hall) with its Venetian loggia, and the Museum of Arts and Crafts (Muzej Grada Rovinja-Rovigno). Don't miss the Batana House (Casa della Batana), a small museum dedicated to the batana, the traditional Rovignese fishing boat inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2016.

The waterfront and the islands. The port promenade is the backbone of Rovignese social life — terraces, ice-cream parlours, restaurants, views of the Old Town and the islands. The sunset from the port is a must. Best spots: Mediterraneo (cocktail bar on the rocks facing the peninsula), Valentino (on the rocks, higher up, smarter), port terraces. The Rovinj archipelago includes 14 islands, the main ones being Crveni Otok (Red Island, 30 minutes by boat, hotels, beaches) and Sveta Katarina (St Catherine's, 5 minutes by boat, Hotel Katarina, botanical park). Half-day boat trips from the port: €15-30 per person.

Inland Istria. Allow a full day to explore the hilltop villages. Motovun (45 minutes' drive from Rovinj) — medieval hilltop village at 277 m, perfectly preserved, truffle capital (Truffle Days festival in September), restaurant Konoba Mondo (booking essential), wonderful view over the Mirna valley. Grožnjan (1 hour) — artist village restored in the 1960s, more than 30 galleries, international jazz festival in July-August, bohemian atmosphere. Hum (1 hour) — "the smallest town in the world" according to Guinness with 30 inhabitants, famous mistletoe rakija (biska). Buzet (1 hour) — another truffle hotspot, less touristy medieval old town. Combine with olive oil tastings (Chiavalon in Vodnjan, Belci in Buje, Ipša in Livade — all Flos Olei winners) and wine tastings (Kabola in Momjan, Coronica in Umag, Trapan in Šišan).

The Lim Fjord (20 minutes' drive north) — 11 km marine canal with peculiar salinity, ideal for oysters and mussels. Viking and Fjord restaurants on the banks. Half-day boat trip from Rovinj: €30-45 per person.

The Punta Corrente reserve (2 km south of Rovinj, Zlatni Rt park) — 90 hectares of Mediterranean pinewoods, hiking and cycling trails, swimming in coves. Ideal for a relaxing half-day.