When to go — Central Vietnam

Central Vietnam operates on a distinctive bimodal tropical climate that is out of step with the rest of the country: the dry season runs from February to August, while the wet season settles in from October to December, driven by north-east monsoons that drop heavy rainfall on the eastern face of the Annamite Range.

February to May are the most pleasant months of the year: moderate temperatures (24-30 °C), clear skies, calm sea on Da Nang and Hoi An's beaches, ideal conditions for outdoor sites (My Son, Hue's tombs, the Hai Van Pass). The Hoi An Lantern Festival, celebrated at every full moon, reaches its visual peak in February and March, when thousands of coloured silk lanterns float on the Thu Bon River in the warm spring night.

June to August mark the beach high season: My Khe and An Bang beaches are at their best, the sea is warm (28-30 °C) and swimming conditions are perfect. The heat can however be oppressive in July-August (35-38 °C), and historic sites (Hue, My Son) become gruelling to visit in the middle of the day. This is also when Hoi An reaches peak visitor numbers.

September to November is the risk period: typhoons and heavy north-east rains turn the Thu Bon River into an overflowing torrent, and the flooding of Hoi An's old quarter is a predictable annual event. Those who accept this risk find a romantically rain-soaked Hoi An, very low prices and an infinitely less touristy atmosphere. December and January are humid and cooler (18-22 °C) but typhoon risk fades — an acceptable window for those who prefer empty sites.

The overall recommendation: target March-April or May-June for the optimal combination of weather, sea and thermal comfort. Avoid October-November if your dates are not flexible around the flooding risk.