Itineraries — Central Vietnam

Central Vietnam is organised around a 200-kilometre coastal axis between Hue in the north and Hoi An in the south, with Da Nang at the centre. Three cities of radically different character structure every itinerary in the region: Hue, the imperial capital and its Nguyen legacy; Da Nang, the booming coastal metropolis; and Hoi An, the golden UNESCO merchant city that has become one of Asia's most photographed destinations.

For a short trip (4-5 days), focus on Hoi An with a day trip to My Son and a train hop to Hue: two days in Hoi An (Old Town in the evening, beaches in the morning), half a day at the Cham ruins of My Son, and a day-return to Hue for the Citadel and a bowl of bún bò. This circuit can be run from Da Nang airport and gives a strong impression of the centre without dispersal.

Over a week (7 days), the itinerary gains considerably: 3 days in Hoi An to have time to order custom clothing, explore the Cam Thanh fishing village by kayak and cycle through the Tra Que vegetable gardens; 2 days in Hue for the imperial tombs, a Perfume River boat trip and the Thien Mu and Hon Chen pagodas; and 1 day in Da Nang for the marble mountains and My Khe beach.

With 10-14 days, the trip reaches a depth that a short stay cannot provide. The coastal road between Hoi An and Hue — along old National Road 1 and over the Hai Van Pass by scooter — is one of Vietnam's finest road trips: a full day for 100 km, with views over the South China Sea, the Lang Co lagoon and the fishing villages below. The Quảng Nam hinterland holds the Bach Ma National Park, the Katu villages of the A Lưới valley and the waterfalls of primary forest, experiences entirely ignored by mainstream tourism.