21 days in Thailand: grand north-to-south tour with hidden islands

Day by day

1. 1

   Day 1

   Arrival in Bangkok — first night in Sukhumvit

   Land at Suvarnabhumi (BKK), Bangkok's main airport. Airport Rail Link to Phaya Thai (30 min, 45 THB / €1.20) then BTS Skytrain to Sukhumvit — the most convenient area for a first night, between Nana and Asok stations. Drop bags, shower, head out.

   First move: let yourself be pulled into Sukhumvit Soi 38 for a plate of pad thai in front of the woks (60-80 THB / €1.60-2), then walk up to Terminal 21 to feel the crowd and neon signs. Don't aim for a temple tonight: the heat (28-32 °C in the evening) and jet lag call for an easy first Bangkok night.

   Tips

   • · Avoid taxis without a meter at the airport exit — use the official Taxi-Meter counter (organised queue, 250-350 THB depending on traffic).
   • · Best area to stay: Sukhumvit between Asok and Thong Lo — well served by BTS, restaurants open until 2am.
   Bangkok →
2. 2

   Day 2

   Bangkok: Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun

   The non-negotiable day. Arrive at the Grand Palace at 8:30am when it opens (500 THB / €13, combined ticket including Wat Phra Kaew) to beat the crushing midday heat and tour groups. Dress code strictly enforced: shoulders and knees covered — sarong rental at the entrance (50 THB).

   Leave around 10:30am, walk 5 minutes to Wat Pho (200 THB / €5.30) and its 46m golden reclining Buddha. The temple school takes walk-in bookings (420 THB / 60 min). Cross the Chao Phraya by river taxi (4 THB) to Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn — climbing the prangs gives the best river view. Riverside lunch on the Thonburi side, evening in Chinatown (Yaowarat Road).

   Tips

   • · 8:30am slot is essential — the Grand Palace sees over 5,000 visitors per day in high season; combined heat and crowds after 11am make the visit unpleasant.
   • · The Grand Palace ticket includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion in Dusit — usable the same day or the next.
   Bangkok →
3. 3

   Day 3

   Bangkok: markets, Chinatown and neighbourhood life

   A day of markets and neighbourhoods. Leave early for Chatuchak Weekend Market (JJ Market, metro Chatuchak Park) — 15,000 stalls across 35 hectares, open weekends only (7am-6pm). Average spend: 500-1,000 THB for textiles, street food and crafts. On a weekday, substitute with Or Tor Kor Market next door, a premium food market with exotic fruits (rambutan, mangosteen, durian).

   Afternoon: take the MRT to Yaowarat (Chinatown) — the main road comes alive from 5pm with BBQ stalls, dim sum and duck noodles. Nai Ek Roll Noodles (Yaowarat Soi 11) for roast duck kway teow (80 THB). Free evening — rooftop bar at Lebua at State Tower (600 THB entry redeemable in drinks) for a nocturnal view of Bangkok before the big move north tomorrow.

   Tips

   • · Chatuchak is closed on weekdays: check your arrival day before planning — landing on a Thursday or Friday lets you align Day 3 with the market.
   • · Tuk-tuk to Chinatown from Sukhumvit: negotiate 200-250 THB maximum; refuse any offer under 100 THB, which usually hides a detour to a gem shop.
   Bangkok →
4. 4

   Day 4

   Ayutthaya day trip — former royal capital

   Full day outside Bangkok to discover Ayutthaya, former capital of the Kingdom of Siam (1350-1767), UNESCO World Heritage Site. Access from Bangkok by train from Hua Lamphong (80 THB, 1h30) or minibus from Mo Chit (120 THB, 1h15). Arrive before 9am to beat the scorching heat between 11am and 2pm on the open-air sites.

   Must-sees in the historic park: Wat Mahathat (the famous Buddha head embedded in fig tree roots, 50 THB), Wat Phra Si Sanphet (the three twin chedis, the absolute icon, 50 THB), Wat Chai Watthanaram (riverside temple, Khmer style, 50 THB). Rent a bicycle on arrival (50-80 THB / day) or hire a tuk-tuk for the day (400-600 THB) to cover sites 1-3 km apart. Lunch at Ayutthaya Floating Market (between 11am and 2pm). Return to Bangkok by late afternoon train, light dinner and pack for tomorrow's flight.

   Tips

   • · The Bangkok → Ayutthaya train from Hua Lamphong is more enjoyable than the minibus — open carriages, rice paddy scenery, no traffic jams. Buy the ticket on the spot (no reservation needed for 3rd class).
   • · Ayutthaya is best visited in 6-7h — don't try to cover all temples (over 400 on the island): the five major ones are more than enough for a memorable day.
   Bangkok →
5. 5

   Day 5

   Bangkok → Chiang Mai flight — settling into the old city

   Domestic flight Bangkok (DMK or BKK) → Chiang Mai (CNX), 1h10, 900-2,500 THB / €24-66 depending on airline and lead time — Thai Lion Air, Nok Air and AirAsia serve the route multiple times daily. Prefer a morning departure to maximise the afternoon in Chiang Mai. Official taxi from the airport (150 THB fixed fare to the centre).

   Settle into a guesthouse or boutique hotel around the old city moat (Mueang Kao) — the ideal base to explore on foot. Easy afternoon: cycle around the historic square (rental 60-80 THB / day), glimpse Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Phra Singh. Dinner on Nimman Road or at the Sunday Walking Street if it's Sunday — 1 km of craft stalls and street food between Tapae Gate and Wualai Road.

   Tips

   • · Don Mueang (DMK) departures are often cheaper than Suvarnabhumi — check both airports; the difference can reach 800-1,000 THB.
   • · Book accommodation in the old city or on Nimman Road: two neighbourhoods 2 km apart, both lively and perfectly placed for the programme ahead.
   Chiang Mai →
6. 6

   Day 6

   Chiang Mai: temples and Thai cooking class

   Chiang Mai has over 300 temples — three stand out. Wat Phra Singh (old city, 20 THB) opens at 6am and receives saffron-robed monks at dawn. Wat Chedi Luang (free entry or donation) houses a partially collapsed 15th-century chedi. Wat Sri Suphan (Silver Temple, 50 THB), outside the moat, is entirely crafted in silver metal by local artisans.

   Afternoon: Thai cooking class — among the best in Asia. Duration: 4-5h including a visit to Ton Lam Yai market, preparing 4-5 dishes (green curry, pad thai, tom kha soup) and eating the results. Budget: 900-1,500 THB / €24-40 depending on the school. Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School, Zabb-E-Lee and Gap's House are reliable. Book 48h ahead.

   Tips

   • · Cooking class: choose a school that includes the market visit — that's where the real knowledge is transferred (identifying kaffir lime leaves, fresh vs dried galangal).
   • · Temple dress code: shoulders and knees covered everywhere, including men — guardians are strict in Chiang Mai.
   Chiang Mai →
7. 7

   Day 7

   Chiang Mai: elephant sanctuary

   The highlight of northern Thailand. Always choose an ethical sanctuary (no-ride, no-show, caring for rescued elephants). Elephant Nature Park, founded by Lek Chailert, is the world reference: book 2-3 weeks ahead (2,500-3,200 THB / €66-85 with transport from Chiang Mai and vegetarian lunch included). The day runs 7-8h, leaving at 8am.

   You observe elephants in their habitat, feed them bananas and sugarcane, and bathe them in the river — no saddle, no hook, no performance. An emotionally powerful experience, guaranteed. Return to Chiang Mai around 5pm. Dinner at Huen Phen (khao soi curry, 80 THB) or the night market on Chang Klan Road — a quiet last evening before the Pai escape tomorrow.

   Tips

   • · Elephant Nature Park sells out 3-4 weeks ahead in high season (Nov-Feb) — book as soon as flights are confirmed.
   • · Absolutely avoid any camp offering elephant riding treks or circus performances: cruel practices still very common in the region.
   Chiang Mai →
8. 8

   Day 8

   Pai day trip — rural north and mountains

   Pai is a mountain town 130 km northwest of Chiang Mai, reached via a winding road with 762 bends (minivan from Arcade terminal, 150 THB, 3h). The destination has no cross-link in our network — it's experienced as a foray into authentic rural northern Thailand, far from mass tourism.

   Morning: swim at Mor Paeng Waterfalls (5 km from centre, 30 THB entry), lunch in a riverside café along the Pai River — the vibe is laid-back and bohemian, popular with long-term travellers. Afternoon: cross the bamboo bridge (20 THB symbolic toll), visit Wat Phra That Mae Yen perched on a hill (360° valley view). Sunset from Yun Lai Viewpoint if weather allows. An overnight stay in Pai suits those wanting to linger — otherwise return to Chiang Mai on the evening minivan (last departure around 5:30pm).

   Tips

   • · The Chiang Mai → Pai road is stunning but tough on anyone prone to motion sickness — take Dramamine 1h before departure if needed.
   • · Pai boils down to 2-3 pedestrian streets — no need to arrive with a long checklist: the charm lies in the slowness, the cafés, the mountain sunsets.
   Chiang Mai →
9. 9

   Day 9

   Pai → Chiang Mai — Doi Suthep and Nimman

   Early return from Pai to Chiang Mai (minivan 6am-8am, 150 THB) to reclaim a productive half-day. If the night was spent in Pai: arrive in Chiang Mai around 10-11am. Afternoon devoted to Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai's iconic mountain temple 15 km from the centre (30 min by songthaew from the zoo, 50 THB one way). Entry: 30 THB, then 309 steps or funicular (20 THB) to the golden chedi at 1,073m with panoramic views.

   Head down toward Mae Rim district for royal gardens and arabica coffee farms — northern Thailand is the country's only coffee-growing region. Roasters Wawee Coffee or Ristr8to on Nimman are worth a stop. Last Chiang Mai dinner: restaurant Somtum Der (som tam and Isaan grills, 150-250 THB per dish) or the Chiang Mai Gate night market.

   Tips

   • · Morning haze is common in cool season (Dec-Feb): the view from Doi Suthep is often clear between 9am and 11am, then cloudy by afternoon.
   • · Renting a scooter (250 THB / day, international Class A licence required) for Doi Suthep + Mae Rim gives full flexibility — far better than shared songthaews.
   Chiang Mai →
10. 10

    Day 10

    Chiang Mai → Sukhothai flight — arrival at the ruins

    Chiang Mai (CNX) → Sukhothai (THS) flight, 50 min, 1,800-3,500 THB / €48-93 — Bangkok Airways operates the direct service daily. Sukhothai has no cross-link in our spot network: it's a stage to experience fully on the ground, off the usual tourist circuit.

    Arrive at New Sukhothai Airport (15 km from the historic town), shared songthaew to the park (50 THB). Stay in a hotel or guesthouse at the entrance to the historic park — sleeping near the ruins rather than in modern New Sukhothai means being there at dawn. First reconnaissance by bicycle (rental 50 THB / day at the park entrance) in the late afternoon: the ruins are bathed in golden light in the evening, without the tour groups. Dinner at Chopper Bar or roadside stalls — simple local cuisine, well-earned refreshments.

    Tips

    • · The Chiang Mai → Sukhothai flight is operated by Bangkok Airways — fares are higher than AirAsia or Nok Air, but the connection is unique and Sukhothai Airport is tiny and pleasant.
    • · Bus alternative on a tight budget: direct bus Chiang Mai → Sukhothai from Arcade bus terminal (200-280 THB, 5-6h) — less convenient but works for schedule-flexible travellers.
11. 11

    Day 11

    Sukhothai: historic park and kingdom ruins

    Full day in the Sukhothai Historic Park, UNESCO World Heritage Site — one of the finest concentrations of Buddhist ruins in Southeast Asia. Entry to the central zone: 100 THB (+ 10 THB for the bicycle inside). The park divides into five zones coverable in two cycling loops of 2-3h each.

    Highlights: Wat Mahathat (the great central temple, 200 standing Buddhas around the central lotus), Wat Si Sawai (three Khmer prangs beside a lily-pad pond), Wat Sa Si (seated Buddha on a strikingly beautiful island), Wat Si Chum (15m seated Buddha in a dark chamber, hypnotic gaze). The 7-9am light is best for photography — arrive before the coaches. Fruit picnic by the ponds at noon, rest at the hotel during the heat, resume cycling at 3:30pm for the late afternoon light. Last dinner at a local restaurant near the park before tomorrow's flight.

    Tips

    • · Bring a 1.5-litre water bottle per person — drinking water points inside the park are scarce and the sun is relentless even in cool season.
    • · The park is magnificent at sunrise (5:30-7am in cool season) — tickets are valid from gate opening and guards are lenient at that hour.
12. 12

    Day 12

    Sukhothai → Krabi flight — arrival and Railay Beach

    Sukhothai (THS) → Krabi (KBV) flight via Bangkok (BKK), unavoidable connection, 4-6h total, 2,500-4,500 THB / €66-120 — Bangkok Airways + AirAsia or Thai Airways. Book both legs together with at least 2h layover in Bangkok. Arrive at Krabi Airport in the early afternoon, shared minibus to Ao Nang (150 THB) or taxi (400-500 THB). Base yourself in Ao Nang — ideal logistics hub for excursions, mid-range accommodation, restaurants open late.

    If time allows (last long-tail boat around 6pm): take a long-tail from Ao Nang to Railay Beach (100 THB, 10 min) — a peninsula inaccessible by road, surrounded by 360° of towering limestone cliffs. Even one hour on Railay West Beach at sunset justifies the trip. Dinner in Ao Nang, Lae Lay Grill sea-facing or the night market stalls.

    Tips

    • · The Bangkok connection on this leg is unavoidable — prefer a combined ticket via an agency or Skyscanner rather than two separate bookings to avoid connection issues.
    • · Ao Nang vs Railay for sleeping: Railay is quieter and more spectacular but 30-40% pricier with no ATM — stick to Ao Nang for logistics.
    Krabi →
13. 13

    Day 13

    Krabi: Railay Beach and limestone rock climbing

    Full day on Railay Beach — long-tail from Ao Nang from 8am (100 THB, boats every 30 min). Four beaches accessible from the peninsula: Railay West (sunset, calm waters), Railay East (mangrove, less swimmable), Phra Nang Beach (the most beautiful, sacred caves, turquoise water) and Tonsai Beach (surf, bohemian vibe).

    Krabi is one of the world's top destinations for limestone rock climbing: dozens of routes on the Railay and Tonsai cliffs, from 5b to 7c+. Recommended schools: King Climbers or Hot Rock (half-day beginner session 1,200 THB with guide). Without climbing: kayak between the cliffs (300 THB / 2h) or lounge on Phra Nang. Don't miss Princess Cave (Tham Phra Nang) with its unusual votive offerings. Return to Ao Nang in the evening.

    Tips

    • · Phra Nang Beach is reachable from Railay in 15 min on foot via the southern trail — arrive early morning to enjoy the turquoise water before day-trip crowds.
    • · Calm waters from mid-November to mid-April on the Andaman coast — outside this window, boats can be cancelled.
    Krabi →
14. 14

    Day 14

    Krabi: 4 Islands Tour

    The unmissable organised excursion: the 4 Islands Tour from Ao Nang visits Koh Mor (coral snorkelling), Koh Tub and Koh Chicken (a sandbar connecting both at low tide), and Koh Poda (crystal-clear water, immaculate white sand, postcard-perfect palm trees). Duration: 7-8h, long-tail or speedboat. Budget: 600-800 THB shared long-tail / 1,200-1,800 THB speedboat with mask, snorkel, lunch and water included.

    The sandbar between Koh Tub and Koh Chicken disappears at high tide — the tour is timed to pass through at low tide (generally 10am-12:30pm). Back in Ao Nang by 4-5pm. Evening: prepare for tomorrow's ferry to Koh Lanta — buy the ticket the night before (350 THB, departure 11:30am from Klong Jilad pier). Farewell Krabi dinner: Tew Lay Bar on stilts or Ruen Mai for seafood.

    Tips

    • · Choose the speedboat if timing is tight — it visits the same islands in 5h instead of 8h.
    • · Reef-safe sunscreen is mandatory at the site — rangers have enforced the ban since 2022; regular sunscreen can result in a 1,000 THB fine.
    Krabi →
15. 15

    Day 15

    Krabi → Koh Lanta ferry — island arrival

    Ferry from Klong Jilad pier (Ao Nang) to Koh Lanta, departure 11:30am, arrival around 1:30pm, 350 THB. Koh Lanta has no cross-link in our spot network — it's a deliberately preserved island, without large developed beach resorts, offering a quiet counterpoint to the sustained pace of the first days. Koh Lanta Yai is lined by several distinct beaches on its west coast: Long Beach (Hat Khlong Dao), the most touristic but beautiful, Kantiang Bay in the south, wild and uncrowded, and Klong Nin Beach, the happy medium — restaurants with sand-floored terraces, white sand, calm water.

    Settle into a seafront resort or bungalow (900-2,000 THB / night for a good sea-view room). Easy arrival afternoon: beach lounging, snorkelling from shore (reefs accessible 50m out at Kantiang). Sunset from Long Beach or the Mango House bar-restaurant. Dinner: grilled seafood with feet in the sand.

    Tips

    • · The Krabi → Koh Lanta ferry is seasonal (November-April only) — outside this window, a minibus with included ferry crossings is available but slower (3h30, 450 THB).
    • · Koh Lanta is large (30 km north to south) — rent a scooter on arrival (250 THB / day) to explore the southern beaches inaccessible on foot.
    Krabi →
16. 16

    Day 16

    Koh Lanta: wild beaches and National Park

    Day exploring the island by scooter. The Mu Koh Lanta National Park (entry 200 THB) occupies the island's southern tip — pristine beaches, jungle, colonial lighthouse, sea turtles visible November-March from Hat Hin Ngam beach. Head to Kantiang Bay: a horseshoe bay with exceptional water clarity, almost never crowded even in high season. Snorkelling from shore or sea kayak (rental 300 THB / 2h).

    Lunch at Ozone Bar (feet in the water, grilled fish, 200-350 THB) or one of the small beachside restaurants at Klong Nin. Afternoon: Tham Khao Maikaew Caves (limestone caves in the jungle, 200 THB with guide, 2h of light caving) if the adventurous spirit is there, or natural rock pools at low tide at Hat Hin Ngam. Evening in the fishing village of Ban Si Raya (Lanta Old Town) — Sino-Portuguese houses on stilts over the water, quiet bars, authentic atmosphere.

    Tips

    • · Koh Lanta Old Town (Ban Si Raya) is often overlooked by visitors in favour of beaches — yet it's one of the best-preserved stilted fishing villages in Thailand, a must in the late afternoon.
    • · Sea turtles nest on Koh Lanta beaches between November and February — check with the National Park whether evening observation walks are organised.
17. 17

    Day 17

    Koh Lanta: snorkelling at Koh Haa and Koh Rok

    A day at sea: the Koh Haa + Koh Rok excursion is considered the best snorkelling in southern Thailand. Koh Haa (five islets), reserved for divers and snorkellers — no accommodation, no restaurants, intact coral, 15-20m visibility. Koh Rok (two islands), marine national park — talcum-white sand, turquoise water, blacktip reef sharks in shallow water (harmless). Speedboat excursion from Koh Lanta, depart 8am, return 5:30pm, 1,500-2,000 THB with lunch, mask and snorkel, park fee (200 THB per island).

    Recommended operators based in Koh Lanta: Lanta Divers, Kon-Tiki and Scubafish — all offer the snorkelling trip. Book the day before in low season, 3-4 days ahead in high season. After return: relaxation evening, traditional Thai massage (300-500 THB / 60 min) in one of the Klong Dao or Klong Nin parlours, prepare for tomorrow's ferry to Phuket.

    Tips

    • · Koh Rok is closed to visitors from 16 May to 31 October (coral protection) — check closure dates when booking outside peak months.
    • · Koh Haa water can be cool (25-26 °C in December-January) — bring a light wetsuit (rashguard) or rent on-site (50 THB) for longer snorkelling sessions.
18. 18

    Day 18

    Koh Lanta → Phuket ferry — arrival and Promthep Cape

    Ferry from Koh Lanta's main pier to Phuket (Rassada Pier), departure 8am, duration 3h-3h30, 650-850 THB. Koh Yao Yai lies along the route — the ferry passes close to this peaceful, non-touristy island, visible from the deck. Arrive in Phuket around 11:30am-noon. Taxi from Rassada Pier to accommodation (200-400 THB depending on area).

    Recommended base on the east side (Chalong or Rawai) to escape Patong's crowds, or west side (Kata Beach or Karon Beach) for beaches without excessive tourist density. Easy arrival afternoon: sunset from Promthep Cape (island's southern tip, 270° view, busy but undeniably spectacular) then fresh seafood dinner at Rawai Seafood Market — buy by weight at the counter, have vendors grill it on the spot (400-600 THB for two, BYOB possible).

    Tips

    • · Book the Koh Lanta → Phuket ferry in advance in high season — boats sell out 3 days ahead in December-January.
    • · Rawai and Chalong are 30-40 min by scooter from Patong — a strategic base to escape the crowds while still easily reaching the west coast beaches.
    Phuket →
19. 19

    Day 19

    Phuket: Phi Phi Islands day trip

    The flagship day trip from Phuket. Phi Phi Islands by speedboat, depart 8am, return 5pm, 1,200-1,800 THB depending on operator, including mask and snorkel, buffet lunch and park fee (400 THB since 2024). The standard circuit includes Maya Bay (reopened in 2022 after 4 years of ecological closure, access limited to 300 people at a time), Pileh Lagoon (snorkelling in translucent green water), Viking Cave and a stop on Phi Phi Don for lunch.

    Choose an operator that reaches Maya Bay early (before 10am) to avoid peak crowds. Snorkelling at Hin Klang (reef between Phi Phi and Bamboo Island) is often exceptional: turtles, barracuda, schools of tropical fish. Back in Phuket around 5:30pm. Relaxed dinner — Soul Kitchen in Rawai or the Naka night market.

    Tips

    • · Maya Bay is accessible only by swimming from the boat since 2022 — good fins or strong arms needed for the 100m swim.
    • · The 400 THB park fee is collected at sea by rangers — have cash ready, cards are not accepted.
    Phuket →
20. 20

    Day 20

    Phuket: Phang Nga Bay, James Bond Island and Phuket Town

    The second major day trip from Phuket: Phang Nga Bay, a national marine park. The typical excursion runs 7-8h from Phuket (depart 8am, 1,500-2,200 THB depending on option), with inflatable kayak included to navigate the hongs (sea caves that you paddle through, accessible only at low tide). Highlights: Ko Tapu (James Bond Island), the vertical rock pillar made famous by The Man with the Golden Gun (1974), Ko Panyi, a floating village built entirely on stilts with a school, mosque and waterfront restaurants.

    Back in Phuket around 4:30-5pm. Last Thai evening: 2h massage (Let's Relax or Baan Dalah Spa, 600-900 THB) then dinner in old Phuket Town — its Sino-Portuguese streets (Thalang Road, Dibuk Road) and coffee shops in former shophouses are among the city's most beautiful. Restaurant Raya (traditional Sino-Thai cuisine, dishes 150-280 THB) for a last authentic evening.

    Tips

    • · Ko Tapu (James Bond Island) is incredibly crowded between 10am and 2pm — operators departing at 7-7:30am arrive before the masses and earn 30 min of crowd-free photos.
    • · Phuket Town deserves 2h of evening strolling — its restored Sino-Portuguese shophouses form one of the most coherent historic centres in the region.
    Phuket →
21. 21

    Day 21

    Phuket → Bangkok → international departure

    Last Thai morning: wake at 6:30am, head to Rawai morning market or Naka Market depending on flight time — khao tom (rice soup, 50 THB), freshly pressed fruit juice. Last-day rule: allow at least 2h30 between hotel and boarding gate at Phuket Airport (HKT), and factor in the Bangkok connection if your international flight departs from Suvarnabhumi or Don Mueang.

    Phuket (HKT) → Bangkok (BKK or DMK) flight, 1h20, 800-1,800 THB. If flying direct internationally from Phuket, skip the connection. Bangkok stopover if needed: allow at least 3h between landing and international departure (checks, different terminal, possible shuttle between BKK and DMK — taxi 400 THB or AE-4 bus 150 THB). Return to Europe on 11-12h flights (Paris CDG, 7-9 times weekly from BKK in high season).

    Tips

    • · Avoid leaving Phuket on a Monday or Friday morning — check-in queues at HKT can exceed 1h on these peak days in high season.
    • · Last-minute purchases: Phuket Town pharmacies sell Tiger Balm, papaya cream and Thai products at one-third of airport shop prices.
    Phuket →

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