Things to do — Cusco

At Cusco, must-sees over 2-3 days: Plaza de Armas (living centre, to walk in the evening with quena players and terraces), Cusco cathedral (PEN 40, audioguide, 1h-1h30 visit, famous Last Supper with guinea pig), Compañía church (Jesuit 1576, most beautiful baroque facade in South America), Coricancha (PEN 15, former Inca sun temple under Santo Domingo monastery), Hatunrumiyoc wall and its 12-angle stone (free, Hatunrumiyoc alley).

Peripheral Inca sites accessible with the boleto turístico (PEN 130, 10 days): Sacsayhuamán (cyclopean fortress, most important, 30 min uphill walk from Plaza de Armas or PEN 10 taxi, 2h visit with guide), Q'enqo (shamanic sanctuary carved in rock, 5 min from Sacsayhuamán), Tambomachay (ceremonial fountains, 7 km), Puca Pucara (guard post, 7 km). Ideal as half-day grouped (full-day taxi PEN 100-150, or bus tour €30-40/person).

Museums: Museo Inka (Casa del Almirante, pre-Columbian and Inca collection, PEN 10, 1h30), Museo de Arte Precolombino (MAP) (exceptional private collection 1250 BC-1532, modern museum presentation, PEN 22, 2h, excellent café-restaurant), Museo Machu Picchu (Casa Concha) (objects found at Machu Picchu by Hiram Bingham, returned to Peru by Yale in 2011, PEN 20), Casa Garcilaso (regional museum in colonial house).

San Blas quarter: stroll through cobbled alleys, artist workshops, San Blas plaza and mirador, San Blas church (18th century carved pulpit). San Pedro market: authentic, exotic fruits (chirimoya, lúcuma, granadilla), juices, popular comedor for cuy chactado (grilled guinea pig, controversial but traditional, PEN 25-40), quinoa soup, lomo saltado (PEN 10-15).

Gastronomy: Chicha by Gastón Acurio (Cusquenian cuisine refined by the Peruvian star chef, Plaza Regocijo, €50-80), MAP Café (in Museo MAP, exceptional setting, fusion cuisine, €60-100), Cicciolina (Italian-Peruvian, San Blas, €35-55), Pacha Papa (Plaza San Blas, traditional Andean cuisine, €25-45, authentic atmosphere with live music), Greens (organic, vegetarian, €20-30), Limo Cocina Peruana (creative, Plaza de Armas view, €40-60). For cuy (guinea pig, traditional Andean dish): Pacha Papa or Inka Grill.

Nightlife: Cusco has a lively Andean nightlife scene. Bars on Plaza de Armas: Norton Rats Tavern (high terrace), Cross Keys Pub. Andean clubs with live music: Ukukus (traditional Andean music, 9pm-2am, PEN 15-25 entry), Mama Africa (Latin mix, salsa). For pisco sour: Museo del Pisco (Plaza de Armas, rare pisco selection).

Excursions from Cusco: Sacred Valley (1-day guided excursion €30-50/person, Pisac + Ollantaytambo + Chinchero + Maras-Moray), Machu Picchu (must-do, minimum 2 days), Rainbow Mountain Vinicunca (5,200 m, 3h road + 1h30 altitude walk, €50-80), Laguna Humantay (4,200 m, turquoise glacial lake under Salkantay, full day €50-70), Southern Valley (Pikillaqta, Tipón, Andahuaylillas) — less known pre-Inca and baroque sites, €30-40.