Things to do — Arequipa

At Arequipa, must-sees over 2-3 days: Plaza de Armas (one of Latin America's most beautiful, to walk in the evening with its lively arcades and Misti view), cathedral (PEN 25, inside museum, climb tower for panoramic view PEN 25), basilica of La Compañía (free for church, Saint Ignatius chapel PEN 10), Santa Catalina monastery (PEN 60-70, 2-3h, absolute must-see, morning visit or illuminated evening), Andean Sanctuaries museum (PEN 25, Juanita mummy, mandatory 1h30 guided visit), Casa del Moral (PEN 18, preserved colonial house), Casa de Tristán del Pozo (PEN 10, baroque facade). More contemplative: Yanahuara mirador (2 km from centre, panoramic view of city and Misti, café-restaurants at foot, taxi or bus access), Yanahuara plaza (18th century colonial church, traditional atmosphere).

In the centre, stroll through colonial alleys — Calle Mercaderes (commercial), Calle San Francisco and Calle Santa Catalina (charm), Calle Bolognesi (crafts), Calle Jerusalén (restaurants). The San Camilo market is one of Peru's best — exotic fruit juices (chirimoya, lúcuma, granadilla), popular comedor for rocoto relleno (PEN 10-15), quinoa soup, cuy chactado. The barrio San Lázaro (behind Santa Catalina) is Arequipa's oldest quarter — cobbled alleys, more authentic atmosphere.

Gastronomy — must-do at Arequipa. Chicha by Gastón Acurio (Plaza Regocijo, arequipeña cuisine refined by star chef, €50-80), Zig Zag (exotic meats over wood fire, alpaca and fish on hot volcanic stone, €35-60), Picantería La Capitana (traditional picante cuisine in local atmosphere, €15-25), Tradición Arequipeña (traditional dishes in colonial casona, €25-40), La Nueva Palomino (reference picantería, open lunch only, €12-25), Inkari (modern Andean cuisine, €25-40).

Excursions from Arequipa. Colca Canyon (2 days/1 night, €80-150/person, must-do, condor observation). Misti ascent (5,822 m, 2 days/1 night, €250-400 with guide). Chachani ascent (6,057 m, one of the world's 'easiest' 6,000 m, 2 days, €350-500, first easy 6,000 m for trained amateurs). Cotahuasi Valley (canyon even deeper than Colca, 3,535 m, 2-3 days, wilder, less touristic, €200-350). Volcano Valley (near Misti and Chachani, hikes, €30-50). Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Blanca (wild vicuñas, Andean lagoons at 4,000 m, en route to Colca).