Things to do — Reykjavik

Historic centre: Hallgrímskirkja (church, ISK 1,200 / €8 lift, panoramic view), Harpa (concert hall, guided tour €25 or free public lobby), Sun Voyager (free sculpture, at sunset), Tjörnin (central pond, town hall, birds), Laugavegur (shopping street, design boutiques), Skólavörðustígur (rainbow street up to the Hallgrímskirkja).

Museums: National Museum of Iceland (ISK 1,800 / €12, excellent Viking history and saga presentation), Settlement Exhibition (Aðalstræti, ISK 2,500 / €16, ruins of the first Viking farm under the city centre), Perlan (ISK 3,700 / €25, museum of Icelandic wonders with artificial ice cave and Northern Lights planetarium), Phallological Museum (ISK 2,500 / €16, world-unique collection of mammal phalli, surprisingly serious), Reykjavik Art Museum (3 sites: Kjarvalsstaðir, Hafnarhús, Ásmundarsafn, ISK 2,100 / €14 pass).

Old harbour and excursions: whales (3 h, €90-115/person, operators Special Tours, Elding, success rate >95% April-October), puffins (in season May-August, Lundey island 30 min by boat, €60-80/person), sea fishing (3 h, €100-150/person).

Geothermal: Sky Lagoon (10 min from Reykjavik by bus, €60-100 entry, 7-step ritual circuit, ocean view), Blue Lagoon (45 min by bus, €80-150, the most iconic), Vesturbæjarlaug or Sundhöllin pool (ISK 1,200 / €8, the most authentic experience frequented by locals).

Nightlife: Laugavegur and Bankastræti (main axes), recommended bars: Kaffibarinn (alternative institution, founded by Damon Albarn of Blur), Lebowski Bar (film-themed cocktails), Kaldi Bar (Icelandic craft beers), Mikkeller (Danish microbrewery), KEX Hostel (hostel with excellent bar and concerts). The Saturday night runtur (bar crawl) starts around 11pm and finishes around 5am.